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Routes in Sandstone Buttress
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5 Year Plan, Baby D’Angles, Gravity in Chains & Illusions of Lander T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Ancient Graffiti T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Arapiles Revisited S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Dang Nab It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Group Grope T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gunky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gunky Left Shield Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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honey comb haulbags T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a V4 6B R |
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New Sensations S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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No Name Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sentinal Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Standard Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,191 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rachele on Sep 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
A short (15 foot) squeeze chimney leads to a large ledge. Continue up a narrow dihedral and a hand crack to another ledge. Follow face holds and a hand crack up to the chimney proper. Climb the chimney to a significant ledge. From here, climb right into a small chimney, then traverse up and left towards the break in an overhand. Climb up between the overhand and the cliff wall at it's smallest point to another ledge. Then climb up easy slabs to the top.
Location
Walk along the ledge at the base of the sandstone buttress until it is possible to see a prominent chimney. If you are wondering if it is a chimney, you haven't seen it yet.
Protection
There is one bolt on the first ledge. Two bolt belay on the second ledge. Two bolts in the second chimney. Two bolt belay on the third ledge. One bolt in the third chimney. Two bolt belay on the fourth ledge. There is a two bolt belay at the top. This climb is bolted to death, and there are plenty of options for placing traditional protection. You could rapel this route with a 30m rope.
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