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I Love Brian Piccolo
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 0.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Mel's Diner
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Background Noise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bleu Plate Especial T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Earworm T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fifth Dimension, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fusion Punk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hurly Burly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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I Love Brian Piccolo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kickin' Bach T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Mel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mel's Mantles TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Modern Jazz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mumbles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Murmur Has It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mutterers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Other Voices T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overheard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pell Mel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Piranha T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Power of Now, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Mel Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rock & Roll Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roman Pretzel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whispers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Quinn McCleod & Brian Sillasen, 9/86 |
| Page Views: | 1,366 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Owen on Jan 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Located on an upper tier buttress to the right of boulder piles. A flaky looking crack that leads to a notch. It can be combined with "Other Voices".
Boulder-hop across from the top of "Other Voices" to find another steep one. Start up a thin crack (cams) to the right of a large thick undercling flake, this leads to a traverse left to the bottom of the main crack. The crack leans leftwards, a big sharp handrail (medium cam in crack) allows you to gain the crack, and good holds and exposed climbing leads to a rest on a large flake on the right. Step left from here and into the crux (small/medium cam) strenuous moves lead to a tricky finish.
Scramble off to the right.
Boulder-hop across from the top of "Other Voices" to find another steep one. Start up a thin crack (cams) to the right of a large thick undercling flake, this leads to a traverse left to the bottom of the main crack. The crack leans leftwards, a big sharp handrail (medium cam in crack) allows you to gain the crack, and good holds and exposed climbing leads to a rest on a large flake on the right. Step left from here and into the crux (small/medium cam) strenuous moves lead to a tricky finish.
Scramble off to the right.
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