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2 bolt anchor

David Battiste · · Renton, WA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Use a 20' 7mm cordalette tied two double barrel knots w/ two locking biners for the anchors and a pear shape locker under a figure eight and another on the shelf. This allows for toperope, top belay and multipitch. You can untie it easily and adjust for uneven anchors or building trad anchors. Some may believe it's heavy but I can use it in the dark, in the cold and it's cheap.

Enjoy.

Always ready
hanging on harness

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

My mistake, that looks like a different version of a sliding-x to me. It seems like a lot to hassle with though unless you're on a nice ledge.
I like a couple draws because you get to the top of the pitch pumped, throw in a draw and take, no F**** around with a cord.

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Certainly not a sliding X nor a quad. Both the X and quad are self equalizing. Hence why they are both my go to ,.. The quad more. Thanks for the input and discussion. As always fun!

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Biner on each hanger, tie in with the red, tie in with the blue.

Bob A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

One biner to each bolt then 4 ft nylon runner clipped to each biner,equalized and tied with a figure eight master point.
Quick and simple to set up and break down.
I leave the cordelette neatly on the back of my harness to save for a tree anchor.

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145

The beauty of the Quad is that assuming the bolt anchors all have a similar configuration, you can pre-rig it and then just clip and go. The Quad is a bomber way of finding middle ground between a pre-rigged and self-adjusting anchor. Moreover, the Quad completely comes into its own for long multi-pitch climbs with bolted anchors like in Red Rocks NV or Devils Tower.

If you have to fully assemble and reassemble the Quad every time you arrive/leave an anchor, it completely defeats the purpose and you might as well just use the basic:

seekingexposure.com/case-st…

Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 930

Side by side bolts and multipitch: 2 biners needed, one biner on each bolt, grab your lead rope that you are tied into, make a big figure 8. Clip clip. (it is self equalized) Done.

Over under bolts multipitch: 2 biners, grab your lead rope that you are tied into - clove (bottom) clove (top) Perfectly equalized. Done.

Stout Tree: grab your lead rope that you are tied into, toss the bight around the tree and tie a bowline. This takes about 4 seconds and is super strong and simple. Weak looking tree, same as above, except sit on your ass in a good location with your feet braced well to get the follower up. Might need to beef it up when the follower hits your spot or simply have the leader put in a perfect Jesus piece off the belay.

Then you don't have to be carrying extra things or stealing from the leader's rack for the next pitch.

If it's not multipitch then you can take your time and monkeyfuck all you want for the perfect equalized, multiple lockers and magazine covershot photogenic Clusterfuckolette version one wishes.

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488
Tom Sherman wrote:I'll chime in, because I really like this method. I use this when we plan to TR a route, or otherwise want to be super-safe. 2 Alpine Draws, 2 Lockers Put an alpine draw on each hanger. Undo the rope end biner and attach to hanger as well, opposite/ opposed other biner. Now add a locker to each alpine draw. So now you have opposite opposed non-lockers on each bolt hanger, and 2 locking biners on the rope. When you lock everything up make sure both locking biners goes through both slings.
If I am understanding you correctly, you take the rope end biner from the alpine draw and clip it to the hanger with the bolt end biner. This sounds like a really bad idea to me. You don't want to get burrs on your rope end biners.
CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145
Billcoe wrote:If it's not multipitch then you can take your time and monkeyfuck all you want for the perfect equalized, multiple lockers and magazine covershot photogenic Clusterfuckolette version one wishes.
Awesome! hahah
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Take a sling ... Tie a figure 8/9

If you are using the rope then clove one bolt leave a bit of a bight then clove the other ... And clove it back to you of you want it to be "proper"

For sport climbing 2 opposed draws IF the bolts/chains are nice and even

Thats all there is to it ... Really

One important point is that i see folks use "sport" anchors of 2 draws on TR where they may not be appropriate if the bolts are staggered or the biners/draws loaded badly over an edge

KISS

There was someone here over the winter who decked from a TR anchor ... My understanding is that it was overly complicated

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

I rarely TR or slingshot, I like belaying up there,95% of the time on doubles, and I'm just an ATC off harness type fossil.

Two bolts I hit with two sport draws, then clove one rope each to the bottom biners. When my partner arrives, she cloves into the top biners, by passing the rope under my connections, so I'm on top. If swinging leads I go into the top biners. No clove-ins in the way of others, no extra biners binding or loading jingus at the bolts.

I don't carry any "lettes any longer.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Single pitch I'm often setting up an anchor for others to top-rope on, and even when just someone following will follow the same habit: 4 lockers, nylon sling, over-hand power-point. I'll try to tie so that the two arms are about equal length -- but won't worry about, I'm on bolts. I want redundancy, but don't care about equalization.

Multipitch - I'm often leading most of the pitches, or leading in blocks, so I'll just use the same. I might just use one locker in the powerpoint, rather than two, since I'm there to supervise it -- so I could see if it is getting unlocked by strange rope movement.

redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Dylan Pike wrote: If I am understanding you correctly, you take the rope end biner from the alpine draw and clip it to the hanger with the bolt end biner. This sounds like a really bad idea to me. You don't want to get burrs on your rope end biners.
thats barely an issue for TR
Neil Johnson · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 209

What knot is that guy using in his cordelette?

seekingexposure.com/meet-th…

It looks like it was intended to be a triple fisherman's

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Looks that way. Seems twisted.

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145
Neil Johnson wrote:What knot is that guy using in his cordelette? seekingexposure.com/meet-th… It looks like it was intended to be a triple fisherman's
Looks like the guy responded in his blog to your comment... was a good answer actually. I like the idea of using an overhand bend w/ backup.
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
keithconn wrote:Whats your 'go to' when you have two bolts to build an anchor. For some reason I always use the Quad. Interested to hear what others instinctively use.
Assuming we are swinging leads and the bolts good, standard Banshee belay using the rope:

i.e. big locker on bolt one / clove hitch rope to this / carabiner on second bolt / clove rope to this / clip reverso in guide mode to big locker (yes, metal-to-metal).

Just about fastest the way there is.

Jack C · · Green River, UT · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325
Bill Kirby wrote:A partner uses a super long dyneema sling and ties a figure 8. I would like to try that out.
I've read some awful stuff about knotting dyneema. For a toprope or multipitch anchor with a bomber first piece on lead it's probably fine. Knotting dyneema, however, definitely weakens it(as any knot does) to the point of failure with short static falls not uncommon for an anchor setup if you're messing about above your gear. Might warrant some looking into. DMM has got some easy to understand videos on the subject if you're interested.
tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 364

Sometimes on single pitch topropes if using 2 draws, the rope rubs or the biners tend to pinch the rope against the rock:

Then for each bolt: use a sling with 2 biners on the rope end.
So the rope goes through 4 old biners. This will keep the rope from getting pinched by the biners.

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
David Coley wrote: Assuming we are swinging leads and the bolts good, standard Banshee belay using the rope: i.e. big locker on bolt one / clove hitch rope to this / carabiner on second bolt / clove rope to this / clip reverso in guide mode to big locker (yes, metal-to-metal). Just about fastest the way there is.
This sort of set up is also commonly used when bigwalling, no?

Quad for spurt for me. Rope and fig 8 for multis.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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