2 bolt anchor
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Use a 20' 7mm cordalette tied two double barrel knots w/ two locking biners for the anchors and a pear shape locker under a figure eight and another on the shelf. This allows for toperope, top belay and multipitch. You can untie it easily and adjust for uneven anchors or building trad anchors. Some may believe it's heavy but I can use it in the dark, in the cold and it's cheap. |
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My mistake, that looks like a different version of a sliding-x to me. It seems like a lot to hassle with though unless you're on a nice ledge. |
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Certainly not a sliding X nor a quad. Both the X and quad are self equalizing. Hence why they are both my go to ,.. The quad more. Thanks for the input and discussion. As always fun! |
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Biner on each hanger, tie in with the red, tie in with the blue. |
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One biner to each bolt then 4 ft nylon runner clipped to each biner,equalized and tied with a figure eight master point. |
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The beauty of the Quad is that assuming the bolt anchors all have a similar configuration, you can pre-rig it and then just clip and go. The Quad is a bomber way of finding middle ground between a pre-rigged and self-adjusting anchor. Moreover, the Quad completely comes into its own for long multi-pitch climbs with bolted anchors like in Red Rocks NV or Devils Tower. |
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Side by side bolts and multipitch: 2 biners needed, one biner on each bolt, grab your lead rope that you are tied into, make a big figure 8. Clip clip. (it is self equalized) Done. |
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Tom Sherman wrote:I'll chime in, because I really like this method. I use this when we plan to TR a route, or otherwise want to be super-safe. 2 Alpine Draws, 2 Lockers Put an alpine draw on each hanger. Undo the rope end biner and attach to hanger as well, opposite/ opposed other biner. Now add a locker to each alpine draw. So now you have opposite opposed non-lockers on each bolt hanger, and 2 locking biners on the rope. When you lock everything up make sure both locking biners goes through both slings.If I am understanding you correctly, you take the rope end biner from the alpine draw and clip it to the hanger with the bolt end biner. This sounds like a really bad idea to me. You don't want to get burrs on your rope end biners. |
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Billcoe wrote:If it's not multipitch then you can take your time and monkeyfuck all you want for the perfect equalized, multiple lockers and magazine covershot photogenic Clusterfuckolette version one wishes.Awesome! hahah |
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Take a sling ... Tie a figure 8/9 |
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I rarely TR or slingshot, I like belaying up there,95% of the time on doubles, and I'm just an ATC off harness type fossil. |
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Single pitch I'm often setting up an anchor for others to top-rope on, and even when just someone following will follow the same habit: 4 lockers, nylon sling, over-hand power-point. I'll try to tie so that the two arms are about equal length -- but won't worry about, I'm on bolts. I want redundancy, but don't care about equalization. |
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Dylan Pike wrote: If I am understanding you correctly, you take the rope end biner from the alpine draw and clip it to the hanger with the bolt end biner. This sounds like a really bad idea to me. You don't want to get burrs on your rope end biners.thats barely an issue for TR |
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What knot is that guy using in his cordelette? |
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Looks that way. Seems twisted. |
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Neil Johnson wrote:What knot is that guy using in his cordelette? seekingexposure.com/meet-th… It looks like it was intended to be a triple fisherman'sLooks like the guy responded in his blog to your comment... was a good answer actually. I like the idea of using an overhand bend w/ backup. |
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keithconn wrote:Whats your 'go to' when you have two bolts to build an anchor. For some reason I always use the Quad. Interested to hear what others instinctively use.Assuming we are swinging leads and the bolts good, standard Banshee belay using the rope: i.e. big locker on bolt one / clove hitch rope to this / carabiner on second bolt / clove rope to this / clip reverso in guide mode to big locker (yes, metal-to-metal). Just about fastest the way there is. |
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Bill Kirby wrote:A partner uses a super long dyneema sling and ties a figure 8. I would like to try that out.I've read some awful stuff about knotting dyneema. For a toprope or multipitch anchor with a bomber first piece on lead it's probably fine. Knotting dyneema, however, definitely weakens it(as any knot does) to the point of failure with short static falls not uncommon for an anchor setup if you're messing about above your gear. Might warrant some looking into. DMM has got some easy to understand videos on the subject if you're interested. |
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Sometimes on single pitch topropes if using 2 draws, the rope rubs or the biners tend to pinch the rope against the rock: |
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David Coley wrote: Assuming we are swinging leads and the bolts good, standard Banshee belay using the rope: i.e. big locker on bolt one / clove hitch rope to this / carabiner on second bolt / clove rope to this / clip reverso in guide mode to big locker (yes, metal-to-metal). Just about fastest the way there is.This sort of set up is also commonly used when bigwalling, no? Quad for spurt for me. Rope and fig 8 for multis. |