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Should you carry a knife when you climb?

Original Post
Evan Ratzan · · Boston, MA · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 222

I have asked this a few times from various climbing partners and I can definitely see the utility in brining a knife along for multi-day climbs in the wilderness, but less so in single pitch sport climbs next to the car. However, I have also known a few climbers who refuse to lead any roped route without one on their harness. I am curious to see the general opinion.

Do you bring a knife when you climb? If so, why and what type?

John Usry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

I think its a good idea to have something to cut the rope with in an absolute worst case scenario. However, I'm not a fan of knives that have the potential of cutting me should they fall. Folding knives can pretty easily open mid-drop, so I don't like my climbing partner to have something like that. But a functional rope cutter is never a bad idea

Rich B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 10

Depends on the climb. They are a necessity on some multi-pitch trad and alpine climbs. Sometimes you need one to clean up a tat anchor and/or add new webbing or chord to one.

Sport climbing not so much, but its nice to have one in your climbing pack.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

I don't go much of anywhere without at least a small locking folder. The Spyderco Dragonfly. Don't see why climbing should be an exception. It was one time and I could have used it to remove a crappy old rap sling that was in very poor condition.

Tyson Anderson · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 126

Knives can be very useful when you need to cut tat/strengthen anchors. I carry a small petzl spatha with me most of the time. However it's always a bit unnerving to pull out a sharp knife in the presence of weighted nylon because it cuts through that stuff like butter. Wouldn't want to slip up and cut through a rope/harness/anchor.

A SAR guy once recommended carrying a folding set of scissors (the kind that come in a first aid kit) instead of a knife for this very reason. I keep meaning to switch over.

Ed Wade · · Hermann, MO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 785

Never carried a knife while climbing. Nice to have in my pack so I can cut the tape off my hands at the end of the day.

SoBrave · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5
Joshua Hunt wrote:Tape a razor blade inside your helmet
+1

Unless you know there is old wedding you're going to need to replace just leave the knife in your pack or car. The times you're going to actually need to cut the rope are very limited; ergo, it will be much more convenient to have that little razor blade taped to the inside of your helmet for those rare instances when you actually need it.

Also the razor blade could come in useful for chopping some lines to keep you going at the end of those big link-ups.
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
youtube.com/watch?v=uxtg7ra…

Sometimes you gotta make the tough decisions.
Lauer · · Duluth, MN · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0

Not an argument against carrying a knife, but you can cut a rope with a dyneema runner or a cordlette in a pinch by sawing it back and forth. It's a good trick to know, and yes it does work. Try it.

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 336

A Spatha/Trango Pirhana type knife with a ring to clip into a carabiner is perfect to put on a locker with some other rescue/anchor items like a prussik cord/Tibloc ascender, some extra bail cord, v-threader, etc.

A knife is also good for various wilderness medicine scenarios such as cutting clothing and improvising gear.

I always bring it, along with a headlamp.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

To fend off savages, yes.

I have a trango as well, nice and compact, fits inside the chalk bag pocket. A wrench may be more useful though

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

I keep a quick link with a tibloc and this small Swiss Army knife on my haul loop: swissarmy.com/us/product/Sw…

I used the knife several times this ice season. When I am ice climbing, I usually keep 7mm bail cord on the quick link also. Small, light, compact and a good thing to have on your harness.

H BL · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95

Always carry a small knife with a short serrated edge for cutting chord or runners if I need to on all climbs. I dumbie chord it to my harness so it doesn't fall, open up and land on someone if it falls.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I got a small knife on my trad "emergency" gear along with the 20ft of tubular webbing. I mean it's pretty key for cutting things. haha

redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5

What about for the gym? Is a gear loop sufficient to clip to? Its not full strength...

sherb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 60
John Usry wrote:I think its a good idea to have something to cut the rope with in an absolute worst case scenario. However, I'm not a fan of knives that have the potential of cutting me should they fall. Folding knives can pretty easily open mid-drop, so I don't like my climbing partner to have something like that. But a functional rope cutter is never a bad idea
Agreed. The first time I climbed outdoors (just single pitch sport) I hired a guide, and as he was climbing his pocket knife opened blade down as it fell out his pocket, and stabbed the ground right next to me. What if it stabbed me in the face? Scary. I tipped him anyway.
Callum Douglass · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2013 · Points: 233

I keep a razor blade taped to the inside of my helmet for emergencies. I haven't had to use it yet, but it's nice to know that it's there.

tenpins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 30

how else will you cut the summer sausage for your triscuits?

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

1) pick up small rock at rap station

2) smash at crusty old sun dried webbing til it disintegrates

  • no knife needed

Old Teton pro tip, best for obscurer alpine routes, less so on prettier, cleaner pieces of rock.
Deimos · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 35

If I ever really needed to cut some nylon rope or webbing on a climb, I would saw through it with my nut tool's lanyard or a shoelace.

Brian Lee Victory · · Austin, TX · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 165

" However, I have also known a few climbers who refuse to lead any roped route without one on their harness. "

Interesting. Even on a single pitch sport climb? Just out of curiosity, have you heard of scenarios when a knife would have been useful during a single pitch sport route?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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