Beginner level cracks in RR

Never been much of a crack climber(Ive certainly "pretended" to be on low angle stuff lol) Took the crack climbing/off-width clinic at the rendezvous and while the instruction was excellent , they had us going up "The Fox"....which even being a novice it was easy to see that when done properly it was a gem and while I did find it aesthetically pleasing as I fumbled my way through it , it was just beyond my depth for being so green on crack.

Anyone have a good rundown on some entry level cracks?

(I apologize if this is a regular topic , the search function wasnt being overly accommodating)

Nicholas,

Given that it is getting warmer and you'll want shade.....Finding pure cracks at beginner grades of say 5.6 to 5.9 are rare in Red Rocks. A quick list might be early morning at Tuna and Chips, later in the day at Newcastle Crag, afternoon...lines left of Tonto at Willow Springs, Mossy Ledges area (Mossy might get sun by 1 PM now). You are going to have to lead most of these though you can get top ropes on the stuff around Tonto and Newcastle with a static extender. If you scramble and 3rd class up the right side of the Sumo Greatness formation you can get a top rope on Mitten's Revenge off a gear anchor,

In Icebox Canyon you can do climbs around Sunnyside, first pitch of Frigid Air, First pitch of Linda's route and with a little ingenuity get a top rope on the upper pitch of Lebanese JoJo. you can bail off Linda's by traversing left to the anchors on Blue Bunny.

Classic Crack of Calico is quality but you either lead it or do Badger Buttress and use an extender to top rope the Classic Crack. The top rope anchor set up there is not beginner stuff.

None of these are pure crack, but you can practice jamming if you do not use the abundant face holds.

Just an idea...the conditions at Indian Creek are pretty nice at the moment. Maybe a road trip is in order?

Thomas...heading up there next week...and you mentioned getting warmer. Are conditions still nice in the mornings (in the sun)...Its hard to gauge what people are comfortable with. Im a Texan and am willing to suffer through 90 degree humid days in Austin to climb...so looking at temps...it looks comfy. Thoughts?

Also, any recommendations for afternoon climbs?...once it does hit 70+ degrees.

Early starts with north faces and NE faces is where I'd go. I used to tolerate the heat better than I do now. Keep in mind the sun is higher on the horizon than it was 3 weeks ago. The Brock guidebook has exposures listed.

Alfonso wrote:Thomas...heading up there next week...and you mentioned getting warmer. Are conditions still nice in the mornings (in the sun)...Its hard to gauge what people are comfortable with. Im a Texan and am willing to suffer through 90 degree humid days in Austin to climb...so looking at temps...it looks comfy. Thoughts? Also, any recommendations for afternoon climbs?...once it does hit 70+ degrees.

Hey Alfonso, definitely remember to check the weather in RRCNCA proper as it is significantly cooler than in Vegas. I am from Austin, too, and feel similarly about the heat. In my opinion it is notably more comfortable here than in Austin right now. Just bring sunscreen and a bunch of water.

Perfect, sounds good and thanks for the weather beta.

Thomas Beck wrote:Nicholas, Given that it is getting warmer and you'll want shade.....Finding pure cracks at beginner grades of say 5.6 to 5.9 are rare in Red Rocks. A quick list might be early morning at Tuna and Chips, later in the day at Newcastle Crag, afternoon...lines left of Tonto at Willow Springs, Mossy Ledges area (Mossy might get sun by 1 PM now). You are going to have to lead most of these though you can get top ropes on the stuff around Tonto and Newcastle with a static extender. If you scramble and 3rd class up the right side of the Sumo Greatness formation you can get a top rope on Mitten's Revenge off a gear anchor, In Icebox Canyon you can do climbs around Sunnyside, first pitch of Frigid Air, First pitch of Linda's route and with a little ingenuity get a top rope on the upper pitch of Lebanese JoJo. you can bail off Linda's by traversing left to the anchors on Blue Bunny. Classic Crack of Calico is quality but you either lead it or do Badger Buttress and use an extender to top rope the Classic Crack. The top rope anchor set up there is not beginner stuff. None of these are pure crack, but you can practice jamming if you do not use the abundant face holds. Just an idea...the conditions at Indian Creek are pretty nice at the moment. Maybe a road trip is in order?

Thanks man appreciate the breakdown , I'll have to see if I can scrounge some up..trekking out to Indian creek has been suggested to me on more than one occasion , might just have to roll out there , thanks again.