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> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Duty Dome - War…
> Duty Dome
Heart of Gold
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 64
votes
Routes in Duty Dome
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A Slice of Ice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bombs Away T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Goatland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Heart of Gold T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jazzy Document S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Party Line T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rat Trap T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Urban Nomads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Gordon Briody, Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar 1998 |
| Page Views: | 6,669 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Jun 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Heart of Gold is a fine multi-pitch journey up the bulk of Duty Dome. Excellent face climbing and thoughtfully placed bolts make for a pleasantly hard climb up beautiful stone.
P1. Begin at the left side of a long roof, following bolts up and then right to a crystal-laden slab and the anchor.
P2. Traverse directly right from the belay, following an obvious hand crack under a roof and around the corner. Trend up and right to the anchor.
P3. The meat. A delicate section off the belay leads to 30m of friction face climbing. The burn you will develop in your calves is worth it.
P4. Easier face climbing leads to a belay near the top of the dome.
P1. Begin at the left side of a long roof, following bolts up and then right to a crystal-laden slab and the anchor.
P2. Traverse directly right from the belay, following an obvious hand crack under a roof and around the corner. Trend up and right to the anchor.
P3. The meat. A delicate section off the belay leads to 30m of friction face climbing. The burn you will develop in your calves is worth it.
P4. Easier face climbing leads to a belay near the top of the dome.
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