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AMGA single pitch instructor (beta)

Original Post
Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

I'm going to be taking the SPI course with AMGA soon and was wondering if there are any resources to get a head start on the material covered. They state that they don't recommend taking the exam right after the course so that tells me it may be pretty intensive. I've been climbing trad for over a decade so I feel like i'm going to do fine but I'd like to get some beta about what is covered. I saw Falcon has a single pitch instructor "text" book for AMGA, is that a good book?

Admittedly, rescue skills are still my weak area. Any specific skills as far as that goes I should practice before the class?

SPI falcon book

Zak Munro · · VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME, SLC · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 345

The falcon book is a very good resource indeed. In order to get a leg up on the course you should be familiar with top vs bottom managed belay set ups, lowering a climber from the top with an plaquette belay device/munter/gri-gri. Different types of raises 2:1/3:1, pick offs, belayed rappels are also a very big topic in the course. I ended up taking my exam a few weeks after the course but only because I felt comfortable with all of those skills. Best of Luck!

Tico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

I wouldn't sweat the prep too much. Sure, read the book, but mostly just pay attention during the course and spend a couple days practicing before the exam.

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

I know this is an obvious response, but do an Internet search on "AMGA SPI manual".

There are numerous hits/sites that have the AMGA "official" manual that you can download (a bit dated at 2012) - but it will give you a good heads start on what is taught and a tentative daily schedule during th course.

I took the course in 2010 - I am sure you will enjoy it and come away with some new knowledge/skills.

Travis Weil · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

The text book is a great resource to have before the course. Depending on your instructor for the course, they may assign reading out of the book the nights of the course. Tico's advice is the best though. Pay attention during the course. Take notes and pictures if you have to. Then practices those skills and get them dialed before the assessment. And remember that not everything in the course deals with technical skills. This course is to teach you how to be an instructor so instructing others is part of the assessment.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

I think you'll find that with a decade of climbing experience you'll feel like most of the skills are pretty obvious. Most of what you'll learn will have to do with institutional standards and practices, which differ from what you would commonly finding yourself doing on your own. A lot of the course covers interacting with clients and client safety. The only thing that you may not have expierence with is belayed rapels, which are quick to learn and something I recommend practicing. 3:1 assists are also something that you may have never done but again, are easy to learn. Enjoy your course.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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