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Anyone used the new Arc'Teryx harnesses?

Original Post
Jacob Smith · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 230

Specifically the AR-395a?
What I really need to know is how comfortable for hanging (i.e. aid climbing) it is relative to the BD Aspect.

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

Oh....I saw that they were discontinuing stuff, now the new stuff. 395a looks interesting, perhaps the replacement for my aging all-around harness. Wonder if the ice clipper slots are in the right place. And I like the new haul loop, at least it can hold gear, even though it's probably still rated 0kN.

I've owned a couple different generations of their harnesses, I wonder if the sizing has changed....

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I'm wondering the same. I'm split between the FL365 and the Togir Light.

Jacob Smith · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 230

What's really getting me is that right now REI has the Aspect on sale so it's literally a third the price of the equivalent arc'teryx harness. I know the arc'teryx will be better, but will it be 3x better?

tsouth · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 5

I've had an arcteryx harness and I really wasn't a big fan. They wear out a little quicker, and are really not that comfortable especially for gear climbing as the harness bends and folds in. Right now I have a edelrid orion harness and it is by far the best harness I've ever owned. I'd highly recommend it. It's great for gear or sport. Is super comfortable to hang in and has a reinforced lower tie in loop which is where i wear out the majority of my harnesses.

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 170

I was using an Arc'teryx R360 (maybe?) for maybe 5 or 6 years. It fit great and was comfortable, the minimal thing is great. However, I had to retire it due to wear at the lower tie in point. The harness was in otherwise perfect shape.
I wound up getting the Togir Light. It's nearly as light feeling as the Arc'Teryx, it fits well, and it has a molded plastic piece at the lower tie in point to inhibit wear. On the negative side, the gear loops are a little odd. There's also a little interior keeper loop for the padded tongue that sits behind the main buckle. The tongue rarely stays in place after a fall.
I'm definitely a fan of the dead bird, but I was hoping they'd adopt the plastic reinforcement at the tie in point like Edelrid and Mammut. If I bought the Arc'Teryx now, I certainly wouldn't use it for everyday gym climbing. I'd keep it for outside days, which are unfortunately fewer in number.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Jacob Smith wrote:What's really getting me is that right now REI has the Aspect on sale so it's literally a third the price of the equivalent arc'teryx harness. I know the arc'teryx will be better, but will it be 3x better?
it wont be better ...

ive owned BD and dead bird harnesses ... currently using a petzl

they make you FEEL better ... but you wont climb any harder or be any "safer"

get the harness that FITS BEST regardless of brand

as someone above said, the lower tie in loops (and the thing bungee leg retainers) are the weak points of dead bird harnesses ... they tend to wear out quite fast

;)
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I had one of the new ar 395harnesses. I say thumbs way down. The webbing on leg and waist loops was severely frayed after a week of zion limbing... I returned it to rei. Rightfully so I was not satisfied and would have kept it had I liked it. I currently have a new petzl Sama love it carries a rack well has done well and fits verycomfortably.

Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

I've had a few dead bird harnesses at this point and love them. I won't climb in another brand.

I will agree, the lower tie in point wears out fast and then people freak when they see the orange innards. I just add a little whatever to the lower point when I first buy it and climb care free after that.

With my first one, which I blew through to orange warning after 200 days I turned it into a gym TR harness. I have zero concerns about its safety. I also asked Arcteryx about a warranty on it and they said 200 days of use is definitely full life of the harness.

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

This seems like beating a dead bird...but continuing...

I have a "lot" of days on a Arc' R320 (previous version to the 320a) - I'm quite happy with how it has worn. And I've worked it pretty good - gym, sport, double rack trad, Vedauwoo offwidths (yay Mother 1). For some reason I don't wear through gear that fast, perhaps not the brand for you if you do.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Bryan Hall wrote:I've had a few dead bird harnesses at this point and love them. I won't climb in another brand. I will agree, the lower tie in point wears out fast and then people freak when they see the orange innards. I just add a little whatever to the lower point when I first buy it and climb care free after that.
I'm surprised more people don't do that. Hand stitching a scrap of pack cloth on there isn't going to compromise the performance of the harness or your safety.
Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100
Gunkiemike wrote: I'm surprised more people don't do that. Hand stitching a scrap of pack cloth on there isn't going to compromise the performance of the harness or your safety.
I'm guessing that when they drop $150 for a harness they don't want to modify it. Only takes a minute though!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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