Mountain Project Logo

Process for soling a big wall?

Original Post
Benjamin A · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

I've seen a ton of articles here that mention soloing as a good practice for your first big wall but am confused at the process of soloing with gear? Anyone have a link to an article or video that explains this?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

There is a ton of information on this site, Supertop, and Bigwalls.net about top-rope and lead rope soloing. TR soloing is a good way to learn how to aid and jug/clean, especially since you will be slow and belaying will suck. The Petzl website has good info about how to set up a solo top-rope. Find a route with continuous crack systems, put up a solo-TR, aid up the route, rap down, jug back up and clean your gear. Repeat until you are fast and efficient. Throw in some hauling practice. What exactly are you confused about?

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

Big wall soloing is a bit like locking yourself in a boring room, forcing yourself to do mundane yet physically exhausting repetitive tasks, and constantly being afraid someone is going to open a trap door behind you and beat you senseless with a bat.

I don't recommend it.

Joseph DeGaetano · · Fayetteville, WV but curren… · Joined May 2008 · Points: 560

There's definitely no shortage of information out there on this subject. But in a nut shell soloing a big-wall requires you to lead solo each pitch and then lower off each pitch's anchor to retrieve gear and then either jug or climb back up to that anchor and then repeat the process until you summit. It's definitely a good way to get tons of mileage in, become super comfortable with rope systems and exposure, and learn self-reliance. It's not so good for pushing climbing physical limits or covering ground quickly.

Lead soloing requires an extensive understanding of protection and back up systems. It is generally less safe than a traditional belay. The most commonly used set up for aid soling is with a modified grigri/chest harness set up using back up knots. The most common system for lead free soloing is also the modified grigri set up, minus the chest harness also using back up knots. Things can get tricky depending on how much the route wanders. Some people use a tag line that they leave anchored to the lower anchor and upon reaching the top anchor, they will rap that line and then jug their lead line retrieving gear on the way up. Another system uses just the lead line for both leading, lowering, and ascending.

Take all this information with caution. Do your own research and experimentation. With that said, at some point you will have to cut the leash and give it a go where you might be figuring shit out on the fly.

Benjamin A · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

Super helpful guys! The main thing I was wondering was how you are protected while leading. It seems like TR soloing may be the way to go to get some practice in.

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

I remember coming across some good information about rope soloing on Steph Davis's website. I found this in a couple of minutes, but if you search around I know she has some more in depth material on there.

highinfatuation.com/blog/ro…

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Ben Glanton wrote:I've seen a ton of articles here that mention soloing as a good practice for your first big wall but am confused at the process of soloing with gear? Anyone have a link to an article or video that explains this?
Just read the book:

andy-kirkpatrick.com/shop/p…
Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70
John Wilder wrote: Wow, that is surprisingly accurate. Probably why I only aid soloed a few pitches before I came to my senses...
I speak from experience.
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
John Wilder wrote: Wow, that is surprisingly accurate. Probably why I only aid soloed a few pitches before I came to my senses...
Just to add some balance.

I don't find soloing a bad experience, or even harder work. It is a lot slower, but three days soloing seems to me about the same as three days with a partner, only less boring as one is not stuck belaying for hours on end.

From the outset you know it will be a slow process so you kind of slow down and chill. No rush to the base pre-dawn, no short fixing. More like building a house out of brick. You have a very large pile of bricks and each one will need to be carried and laid down in turn until they are all gone. The pile is so large, there seems little point rushing.
Nate Nate · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10
Scott O wrote:Big wall soloing is a bit like locking yourself in a boring room, forcing yourself to do mundane yet physically exhausting repetitive tasks, and constantly being afraid someone is going to open a trap door behind you and beat you senseless with a bat. I don't recommend it.
Oh man, that's pretty much how I felt when I tried it. I'll be laughing at that quote for awhile. The monotony does allow you to analyze and become really familiar with your systems and perhaps come out with a stronger skill set and overall confidence in how you do things.
Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

I read Psyhcovertical by Andy Kirkpatrick last winter. Recommended read about his experiences soloing A5 routes. He also is putting out/has put out a "how to" technical manual previously mentioned in this thread.

I enjoyed the book a lot, which made hard aid soloing seem very akin to diffusing bombs. Really interesting stuff, but nothing I have personal experience with.

Bob Dobalina · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 140
Scott O wrote:Big wall soloing is a bit like locking yourself in a boring room, forcing yourself to do mundane yet physically exhausting repetitive tasks, and constantly being afraid someone is going to open a trap door behind you and beat you senseless with a bat. I don't recommend it.
^^^ QUOTE OF THE YEAR! ^^^
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Process for soling a big wall? "

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.