Mountain Project Logo

Early season rock in Adirondacks

Original Post
ali64 510 · · Great Barrington, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

I'm ready to climb and want to spend more time in the Adirondacks this year. Does anyone know which cliffs dry out the earliest and get spring sun.
Thanks,

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Spider web, Poko, Cascade Pass, Rogers Rock are some of the places I've been the end of April into May. I would say Spider web and wash bowl would be the earliest.

ScooterTrash5.10 · · Glens Falls, NY · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5

I would definitely check out Spanky's area, I think Sunshine Wall was what I climbed. Good range of climbing and has a lot of sun exposure hence the name. I don't have my book but one of the climbs are called "bee-hold." The approach is steep, also generally quite muddy though-out the season...

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

Upper and Lower Washbowl are closed as of April 1 as is almost all of Poke-O. Jim Lawyer posted the annual peregrine closures on Facebook the other day:

Here are the DEC specified closures:
Effective Wednesday, April 1, 2015, the following Adirondack rock climbing routes are closed to protect Peregrine falcon nest sites.
Moss Cliff - All routes closed.
Chapel Pond - All routes on Upper and Lower Washbowl Cliffs closed.
(Spiders Web is open)
Shelving Rock – All routes closed.
Poke-o-Moonshine Mountain - All routes on the Main Face are closed except the following routes described on pages 39-45 of Adirondack Rock - A Rock Climber's Guide:
(Waterfall area, Superman Wall, Luther Wall)

ali64 510 · · Great Barrington, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Awesome. Thanks for the info.

ali64 510 · · Great Barrington, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

I am not on facebook. About how long are the closures?

ScooterTrash5.10 · · Glens Falls, NY · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5

Until the birds leave and the DEC re-open the area.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

I think it's usually June or July.

MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Everything left of the chimney at Pitchoff, Sunshine Face at Spanky's, Tombstone Face at Deadwater, Spiders Web, Potter Mt., Tilman's Arete, Frosted Mug, .10 Wall and Balcksmith at the Beer Walls, Kingdom Come at King Wall... probably some more I didn't think of.

Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,116
ScooterTrash5.10 wrote:Until the birds leave and the DEC re-open the area.
Slight correction -- the cliffs are closed until either the birds choose a nest site (in which case the closure is often narrowed and portions of the cliff away from the nest are reopened), or the birds don't nest (and the cliff is reopened early). The closed portions remain closed until the birds leave, sometime in late July or August.
Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,116
ali64 wrote:I'm ready to climb and want to spend more time in the Adirondacks this year. Does anyone know which cliffs dry out the earliest and get spring sun. Thanks,
The "quick to dry" areas listed in the appendix of Adirondack Rock are a good place to start:

Ark Wall
Beer Walls
Chimney Mountain
Deadwater
Lake Pleasant Quarry
Notch Mountain, The Slabs
Owls Head Mountain
Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Potash Cliff
Shelving Rock
Silver Lake, C Chimney Cliff
Silver Lake, Potter Mountain
Snowy Mountain, Main Face
Spider’s Web
Stewarts Ledge
Tilmans Arete
Typhoon Wall, Ward Cleaver Buttress
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Early season rock in Adirondacks"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started