Mountain Project Logo

A

Original Post — This topic is locked and closed to new replies
J Sandwich · · Lone Tree, CO · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 171

A

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Stranger Than Iowa wrote:Any suggestions on a shorter splitter thin hands(regular to wide 1s for me) route at the creek or a route with 20-30' of thumbstacks(or what you call .75 camalots)? Thanks all
I know it doesn't qualify as short, but you should get on pente at reservoir wall. It's one of the best routes i've done at the creek and features like 80 feet of wide ones followed by maybe 40 feet of .75s. Get on it!
Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41
Rump Roast II at the Pistol Whipped wall is a good option. Its been a long time since I've been on it but I think it has what you are looking for.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

ringlocks

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
Cornelius Jefferson wrote: Quarter of a Man and Desert Vuarnet have both!
Neither are splitters, but corners. I'd say Soulfire and Fatted Calf. Fatted Calf is shorter but maybe a tad harder.

There are a couple of very short red camalot routes at the Cliffs of Insanity, but they are rather shallow corners, not splitters - As You Wish and Prepare to Die.
Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

Rock Lobster. It goes big hands to hands to thin hands to a short section of ring locks. All time classic!
or
Pente
or
Excuse station

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

^^Rock Lobster has one move on red camalots, it's mostly hands to wide hands and couple of ringlocks to the chains. Excuse Station is excellent but it's tight reds and is on a longer side. Pente maybe good, but it's more good hands than thin hands - lots of pods.

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302

For the best climbs that are not super-long, and have at least 30 feet of splitter .75 and/or #1 I would suggest: Excuse Station, Scarface, Coyne Crack, and Way Rambo.

GO

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

coyne crack simulator has what you're looking for.

Alex Kowalcyk · · Idaho · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 65

Another vote for Pente, Excuse Station, Rock Lobster and also Scarface.

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302
Stranger Than Iowa wrote:Thanks for all the recommendations. I really appreciate it. Most of these climbs I've drooled over the couple times I've been to the creek but now I'm ready to get after it. Coyne crack is a long term dream, I think the offset would spit me off. Time to see what jamming on uncoated 2x12 has done for me. Classic Iowa splitter
If Coyne is a long term dream, you're doing exactly the right things. Train yourself to 1 - Be absolutely comfortable in #1 cracks (even if they're desperate), and 2 - be able to move up on ringlocks, even with poor feet. Then you'll be able to fight through the opening super-hard moves on Coyne and keep it together through the #1s to reach the first pod. Yes, the offset makes it harder, but that can be simulated too.

GO

This topic is locked and closed to new replies.

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started