Entering Crack Climbing
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Hey guys, so I have been climbing for a few years and have progressed into the 5.11 range sport/ trad climbing. Like a lot of people in my generation, I began climbing in a gym and thankfully was able to take things outdoors pretty quickly. However, on one of my recent outings to Rumbling Bald, NC I got shut down by a popular climb, Frosted Flake which is a 5.9+. Upon reaching the ground I made the comment that "crack climbs aren't my favorite" at which an older man kind of scoffed and told me that I better learn to love them if I wanted to keep climbing outside. Anyway, I think bridging the gap between gym-style face climbing and outdoor crack-climbing is a real problem for me and I was wondering if you guys had any tips on learning the technique and strength needed for these style of climbs. Thanks! |
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These videos are a good start: |
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Crack climbs aren't sport climbs, I've seen many cocky 5.12 sport climbers get shut down on 5.8 cracks. Levi, you are headed in the right direction. Keep crushing and getting shut down. It all helps. |
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What was your technique for Frosted Flake--lieback or jam? |
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Here's part of your answer: |
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LeviWalters wrote:Hey guys, so I have been climbing for a few years and have progressed into the 5.11 range sport/ trad climbing. Like a lot of people in my generation, I began climbing in a gym and thankfully was able to take things outdoors pretty quickly. However, on one of my recent outings to Rumbling Bald, NC I got shut down by a popular climb, Frosted Flake which is a 5.9+. Upon reaching the ground I made the comment that "crack climbs aren't my favorite" at which an older man kind of scoffed and told me that I better learn to love them if I wanted to keep climbing outside. Anyway, I think bridging the gap between gym-style face climbing and outdoor crack-climbing is a real problem for me and I was wondering if you guys had any tips on learning the technique and strength needed for these style of climbs. Thanks!Your best bet is to seek out crack climbs at moderate grades (say 5.8 to 10-), get kicked around a bit and learn from it. Go back practice some more and refine. Repeat indefinitely. Fingers will likely be easier to pick up than hands. |
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Thanks for the replies guys. I have actually seen those videos, it's kind of just a matter of finding a good place to practice those techniques. DoNstamos, how does down climbing help with crack climbing? And I tried jamming it, which I did get through after several attempts. The run out through the crux seemed a bit too much (even though it's what my partner did and it seemed way easier.) |
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Levi, I think down climbing is an essential and often overlooked skill in all aspects of climbing. Don't take my word for it though, ever read any Honnold interviews of his first days of free soloing? Practice down climbing at the gym or on a non crowded route. Oh man I forgot to ask, have you taken a whipper on gear yet? That one is huge, so go out and take practice whippers if need be. |
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Taking practice falls on gear and down climbing in the gym will do absolutely nothing to improve your crack climbing ability. Though they do have value in the broader sense of general climbing skills. I'd caution against trying to work on too many things at once. You want to get better at climbing cracks? Seek out some cracks and go climb them. |
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Got $1,200? |
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Levi..... |
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There is very little in NC (that's legal to climb at anyway) that will prepare you for real crack climbing. Sure there are some cracks around NC, but they often have face holds or the crack section is short enough that you can power your way through it without any good crack technique. Go to the New or T-wall and seek out cracks. |
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I see a lot of beginner crack climbers stretching out way too far. |
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christoph benells wrote:I see a lot of beginner crack climbers stretching out way too far. you dont want your hands too far above your head.,and you dont want your legs fully extended either. In a vertical hand crack you dont need to use your arms to make upward progress. Use your feet to propel you up, while your hands just keep you in. this is different than a face climb, where you are taught to hang of your arms with the fully outstrectched.Agree, except for when the jams become bad in places and it is valuable to learn to position yourself to reach past the bad spots to a good jam. |
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I would suggest to take an hour or two crack climbing class/instructor. |
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You guys have been really helpful, so thanks. I should have clarified that I am actually more of a trad climber than sport. I am just used to places like linville gorge, ship rock, obed, looking glass, etc. I have looked into T-wall and from what I understand that is the best place that has crack climbing close by. So, from what I have gathered getting into crack climbing is just one of those, read a bit and then get out there and apply sort of things? |
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Not sure where you are located, but T Wall has much more of, as well as a higher concentration of purer crack climbs than does the New. The New has short sections of crack on entry level crack (5.8 to 10-) routes. A bunch of the harder stuff is the same. Face climbing with crack protection with a lock here a body length of jams there. Jake's suggestion of Fantasy is a bit of an exception though and it is a good one. |
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It helps a lot to have somebody give you a bit of instruction/feedback. You can figure this stuff out on your own, just like you could probably learn to waterski by yourself, but it's going to be a lot faster with good beta and your being receptive to learning. |
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Forget about grades. Start at where you might've started with sport 5.6/5.7 etc. |
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Thanks all for the replies and being genuine with the advice. On a somewhat related note, if any of you guys are local and would be willing to take a crack climbing newbie out there; I have a full rack and will bring the beer/be your belay slave for a weekend of lessons! |