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New Climber: Climb or Train

Original Post
Luke Utley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15

I recently visited a climbing gym and someone talked about the dangers of hangboarding while still actively climbing. I was wondering what were some good ways to train on the wall? I've heard of 4x4's but was wondering if there were other ways to work on strength/endurance while on the wall?

Joe Crawford · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

try and downclimb as much as you can, especially on routes that are easy for you. it improves your technique on the way up, and has you spending more time on the wall, which is killer for endurance training.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Internalize this idea: climbing is a skill sport. That means most of your "training" should actually be "practice." The most important factor in improving, especially early in your climbing life, is to develop, refine, and maintain your technique. Your goal should be skill acquisition first, second, and third, and strength acquisition fourth.

So climb frequently. Climb different types of routes. Boulder a bunch. And while you do, watch others climb and notice what they do with their feet and bodies while on the wall. What do the folks who look smooth and controlled do with their feet and legs? What do folks who look out of control do? Find the differences and emulate the smooth climbers.

Try different things on the wall and feel what works. Do more of that. Learn about flagging, back-stepping, drop-knees, and all the other esoteric-sounding stuff experienced climbers blather about all the time. And have fun. 'Cause otherwise, why bother?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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