Mountain Project Logo

Quickdraws

Original Post
Caleb Milner · · Salt Lake City · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

I was wondering, I have about 5 quickdraws and I was wondering how much I will need. New lead climber

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

8-10 minimum for most sport routes

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

An average on the routes I've climbed ends up being about 1 every 7 feet or so, more or less, but a solid rack for starting out would be 8-12.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

Look up the routes you're interested in climbing and make sure you have enough. If you're in the IE looking to climb at the Quarry note that a lot of climbs there are long and a few require 20+ draws. Also remember that it's not unreasonable to think your partner might also invest in some draws, so you may only need 5-8 per person.

William Kramer · · Kemmerer, WY · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 935

As you build up your rack, may want to consider getting draws with different lengths of dogbones, for example 5 with 6 inch bones, and 5 with 10 inch, maybe even a few alpine draws. Comes in nice to have a variation when dealing with rope drag or oddly placed bolts or whatever one may run in to.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

You'll probably want about twenty draws, with at least eight of them being extendable alpine draws. 8-12 is fine for starting, but you're going to need more eventually.

El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

There's several factors in determining the answer to that. Are you planning on doing mostly trad or sport? Where will you climb the most?

I'm going to assume you are considering sport climbing. I would say that you can complete most sport climbs with 10 draws and then 2 for the anchors. Standard quickdraws are sufficient for many sport areas, but you might want a couple alpine draws with 60cm slings if routes tend to wander at your local crag.

ScooterTrash5.10 · · Glens Falls, NY · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5

I started with a set of 6 and then 4 alpine draws. Consider your average sport route having a spread of 10ft between bolts and how long the climbs are at a crag. 10 draws all together can get you about 100ft, that's a pretty long sport route at least where I reside.I also don't use draws for my anchors, build an actual anchor with cordlette / webbing and lockers. This is also the cheapest way to start out. If you do buy 2 sets draws your still going to want alpine draws for overhangs or wanderers. I was short on draws once and knew it. I don't necessarily recommend this, but I clipped about four which were to close anyways, had my belayer lower me down to the first and pulled one of my draws and climbed the route back up. In doing so I stayed redundant by having 3 draws still clipped. If you do want 12 definitively go 6 draws and 6 alpines so you can add versatility to your stash. All depends on you and your area.

Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

I had 10, my partner had 10 and we both had a few 24-48in slings which we'd use for making extensions as needed. Learning to read the route for where you need extensions is a good skill to develop after dealing with drop drag on one climb and then using extended placements to make the rope run smooth makes all the difference in the world. You can just make up the long draws on the ground so you don't have to fiddle when you get there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Quickdraws"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started