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shoes fitting question

Original Post
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

So I recently bought a pair of Katana Laces size 41.5 and found the sizing to be odd. width wise, they fit perfectly but length wise they are too big. my toes don't reach the end of shoe and i have between a quarter inch and a third of an inch separating my toes from the point of the shoe. This is my first pair of shoes from any other brand than Evolv. In Evolvs, a size 9 is a perfect fit. my feet probably aren't finished growing so my toes will probably reach the end of the shoes on the katana laces at some point. has anybody been in a similar situation? and advice? for now it's not the end of the world but the lack of sensitivity really hurts my edging which is kind of an issue as i love slab climbing. should i just stick to wearing my evolvs for edging intensive climbs or is there something i can do?

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

I have tried 5.10, la sportiva and evolv i find evolve jsut fits my foot the best its like a glove and break in perfectly. some brand just do not fit everyone. I find the same with harnesses as well black diamond wont fit me comfortable but petzl will. I would stick to what feels good and not try to make something work that doesnt feel right.

Also I find evolv is closer to street shoe size aand sprotiva i had to size way down to get it to fit like my evolvs but in the end i stuck with the evolves its all I wear.

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

IME, Evolv's run a half size smaller than most FiveTen's and Sportivas seem to run a little bigger than most FiveTen's. But shoes are hand made so every pair will be a little bit different. I had two pairs of Scarpa Vapors and one pair was a little bigger than the other. But the Evolv rep did tell me their shoes do run a little smaller than other brands.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

alright. the reason i got the katana laces is because i wanted an all purpose shoe that was comfy, edged well and worked well for crack climbing. can you suggest an evolv shoe that does that?

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

I find the Addict slipper works well for those. I fit them tight and they stretch. seem to edge pretty good. but I know a freind uses the pontas and they seem to be better at edging really small stuff.

Ryan M Moore · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 35

The addict works very well for cracks. The edging is nothing compared to the katanas though. I own both and I had to size way down for the katanas. I think the things that make a good edging shoe and a good crack shoe tend to play against each other. For what it's worth I found the evolv rubber on the addict to be much less grippy than vibram or 5.10.

Added: you might want to check out 5.10 if la sportive doesn't fit. Scrapa an la sportiva fit me similarly to me and 5.10 definitely fits different from them.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Seeing as how you already have the Katanas there are a coupe things you can do until your feet grow into them. Not ideal perhaps but simply wear socks with them. Another thing you can try is get a piece of soft leather and have it sewn into the heel (or just slip in behind your heel as you put them on) - I did this with a pair that rubbed my heels painfully and it tightened them up nicely as well as fixing the rub. I've never tried them but I have seen rubber "heel cups" for runners that might work also? sounds as if you are young and the problem will solve itself with time - hopefully one of these will work out until then.

I love my Katana Laces.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Chris Rice wrote:Seeing as how you already have the Katanas there are a coupe things you can do until your feet grow into them. Not ideal perhaps but simply wear socks with them. Another thing you can try is get a piece of soft leather and have it sewn into the heel (or just slip in behind your heel as you put them on) - I did this with a pair that rubbed my heels painfully and it tightened them up nicely as well as fixing the rub. I've never tried them but I have seen rubber "heel cups" for runners that might work also? sounds as if you are young and the problem will solve itself with time - hopefully one of these will work out until then. I love my Katana Laces.
i think it will try adding some material to the heel. thanks for the idea. unfortunately, when me feet grow to the length of the fit, the shoe will be too narrow for my feet because i have fat ass feet. consequently, socks aren't an option either because then the shoes are too narrow. i really wish la sportiva had a wider fit because, other than the bad fit, i love my katana laces and it is such a good all-arounder shoe- cracks, edging, comfort, it does all of these pretty well. this may have to be my last pair of la sportivas, though. i think i'll just stick with evolvs since they fit me perfectly. i do want to find a shoe that edges better than the addicts though.
Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

Eli have you tried any FiveTen shoes? I have kinda wide feet as well and have found quite a few that fit me well, though anasazi's have to be sized way down to get a decent fit in the heel. The Stonelands are great though, i have slippers and the velcros and they are my favorite shoes.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

ive never owned a pair of 5.10s but i took out a friend's pair of mocs for a day once. he wears the same size street shoe and same size evolv although he doesn't really like evolv much. i don't remember exactly what was weird but the fit just didn't really feel right. next time i'm looking for shoes i'll look at some 5.10s but i'd kind of rather stick with what i know fits well. i've never tried anything from scarpa or mad rock but i've heard scarpa fits similar to sportiva. any suggestions for a good slab shoe from evolv? i would prefer something not too aggressive, although really open to any suggestions.
for now i'm going to look into adding some kind of material, either padding or some kind of fabric to the heels of my katana laces. any suggestions there?

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

Those stick on moleskin patches maybe? They come in different thicknesses and the adhesive would let you just stick it to the back of the shoe.

As far as the moccs feeling weird it may be the anasazi last they are built on, thats why I prefer the stonelands, different last and heel that seem to fit my foot better. I would give them a shot.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Andrewww wrote:Those stick on moleskin patches maybe? They come in different thicknesses and the adhesive would let you just stick it to the back of the shoe. As far as the moccs feeling weird it may be the anasazi last they are built on, thats why I prefer the stonelands, different last and heel that seem to fit my foot better. I would give them a shot.
i'll look into those next time im buying shoes. so just making sure i'm understanding this correctly: take the moleskin patches and use an adhesive to stick it on the heel? i have some tincture of benzion, would this work well for it?
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
John Wilder wrote: your addicts are a fantastic slab shoe- they're designed for smearing on slabs and climbing cracks.
well then i guess it's just me and not my shoes that suck haha. oh well, i still love slabs. ahhh just the sound of the word brings good thoughts.
Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

The moleskin patches have a sticker type backing. Dr. Scholl's make them, as well as other generic brands etc. any pharmacy woild have them. Just cut to size, peel and stick.

Paul MG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

did you try the shoes on before you bought them or were they an Internet purchase? Sizing is different across all manuacturers? For me sportivas are a 7, 5.10 an 8, and evolvs a 9.
I would cut your losses and sell them while the edges are good and buy something that fits

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306
eli poss wrote:ive never owned a pair of 5.10s but i took out a friend's pair of mocs for a day once. he wears the same size street shoe and same size evolv although he doesn't really like evolv much. i don't remember exactly what was weird but the fit just didn't really feel right.
The moccs stretch to fit the foot after a few days of wear. If your friend's shoes weren't new, they were broken in to HIS foot. If you have a foot that fits the 5.10 Anasazi last (and you may judging by my experience with Evolvs), definitely try some on in a store. I have found the moccs fit my EE foot very well in the same as my street size. My VCS are a little snug but better for edging, so they go bouldering. And recently I tried on a pair of Guides which were so comfortable and far superior to the moccs for edging that I ordered a pair. All 5.10s, all Anasazi last.

Try as many different shoes as you can.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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