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Bowline

Original Post
keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Was at a yacht club this past weekend(very nice, east end LI) and they had a display of knots. Have to say I knew everyone except this one. Well I made it my obsession to learn it without looking it up. Of course they had an end showing which made it seem 'not on a bite'. Once I finally figured it out, like a freakin puzzle!!! I looked it up. Have to say once I knew it was a bowline it was obvious.

Anyone ever used a bowline on a bite climbing?

Bowline on bite

Alex May · · San Diego, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 20

I have never used it for climbing, though I could see some potential applications for it.

For those interested in tying it: animatedknots.com/bowlinebi…

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

The bowline on a bight is used occasionally for glacier travel or when you need to tie in to the middle of the rope.

It's also the exact same knot (although tied differently) as a "retraced bowline" which is a somewhat common knot in the US used to tie in to the rope for single pitch sport climbing.

Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070

I've seen it used in anchor systems as it creates two equalizable "bunny ears"

For example:

climbinglife.com/instructio…

goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 30

Ill use a retraced bowline on a bite if im climbing something I plan on whipping on.... much easier to untie after... especially with pumped hands

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

The retraced bowline on a bight is a standard tie-in knot in Europe and has been pronounced the best tie-in knot by the DAV.

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

There you go! I knew if posted here I'd get clarification. Seems more confusing than a follow through 8 for a tie in though.

Stay good everyone!

goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 30

KEITH, It certainly is. It is less commonly used as a tie in know in part because it is more difficult to 'quick glance' check that it is tied correctly. It is also well known. There are many forums dedicated to people asking if this knot is even 'safe' to climb on..... IT IS. (a retraced bowline)

Craig Quincy · · Louisville, CO · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 306

I was asked to tie a bowline on a bite as part of my Eagle Scout board of review (many years ago). I didn't know it so I tied a regular bowline and then bit it with my teeth. I passed...just barely.

J Sundstrom · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 185
Craig Quincy wrote:I was asked to tie a bowline on a bite as part of my Eagle Scout board of review (many years ago). I didn't know it so I tied a regular bowline and then bit it with my teeth. I passed...just barely.
Ha, I would've failed. I was terrible at knots in scouting but since climbing supplies an application, I've gotten much better. I knew my lashes pretty well!
Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

I've used a bowline on a bite a few times to make a harness out of the rope as described by another MP user.

The knot is at about the belt-buckle location. One loop encircles the waist. The other similarly circles the body but just below the buttocks. As the remaining harness is formed, those two loops get anchored and snugged up. Pretty cool.

Rolf Rybak · · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 426

I've been using a bowline with a bite for the last 10 years after climbing more sport than trad. The knot is much easier to untie after repeated falls and is as safe as the classic figure eight.

The only caveat is, that the knot MUST be finished with a bite, I loop the rope back around my harness tie in and finish with a double bite.

John Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 150
Dan Allard wrote:I've seen it used in anchor systems as it creates two equalizable "bunny ears" For example: climbinglife.com/instructio…
Eli is the man.
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

It's useful for anchoring with the rope at a 2 point anchor, and for improvising a harness for rescue at any point along the rope. In John Long and Bob Gaines' second anchors book, "More Climbing Anchors" they devote a good chunk to this knot / technique for anchoring, dubbing it "The Atomic Clip". As a rescue harness, it can be used like a Bosun's Chair - One loop around the torso, the other under the thighs, Or you can use the two loops one for each leg and secure the torso separately.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Pretty standard tie-in knot over here and a good knot for making a loop in the end of the rope.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

It's GREAT for TR rope solo on a solid two-point anchor.

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

I used this knot tonight to fix a line to the bow ring of my $55,000 bass boat so I could haul it close and get it on the bunks of the trailer in a tricky loading situation. It's quick, unites easily and you can tie it without seeing the knot forming.

I use a retraced bowline backed up with a half of a double fisherman for my tie in to my harness. Been doing it over 20 years. Maybe a bit tricky to learn and recognize but it unties easily if you have been weighting the rope on your favorite project. My girlffeind ties hers upside down; always a subject for humor

Deimos · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 35

I use this knot routinely for attaching static cord to a tree for (half of) a top-rope anchor. I assume that two bights harm the tree less than one, by reducing the pressure on the bark.

It is the easiest knot to untie after being weighted repeatedly, as happens in top-roping.

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10
Thomas Beck wrote:I used this knot tonight to fix a line to the bow ring of my $55,000 bass boat ...
a new twist on strength ratings.

instead of being rated to, say, 5 kN, this knot is rated to 55 k$
Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

Might be some confusion over the knot

bowline on a bight can be in the middle of the rope:



standard bowline on the end of the rope:


(or maybe I'm confused)
Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

bowline on a bight isn't really good for tying onto large objects because you have to pass the loop around the entire object. With the bowline on a bight you'd have the loop then you'd have to clip onto it after it's tied. A regular bowline you can tie around something.

For the bowline on a bight couldn't you get the same results with a figure 8 on a bight or an alpine butterfly? Which i think are both easier to tie. Unless you need the double line like in the video about using it for the anchor.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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