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El Potrero Chico Guidebooks (as of 2012)?

Original Post
TJ Esposito · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

Can anyone who's been to EPC recently chime in on what the current lastest-and-greatest guidebook is? There's another post from 2008 asking this question, but I'm assuming that there have been updates and possibly new ones published since then. Thanks!

MisterE Wolfe · · Grass Valley, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 8,092

Just got back from 2 weeks there - Potrero Ed has a new (17th edition) guidebook out, with over 60 new routes in it "not found in other guide-books". It is the 2012 edition, and is pretty much up-to-date, although it is not on the scale of "The Whole Enchilada".

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Dane Bass did the comprehensive guide. MP has a link for both here:

Potrero Chico Guide Books

gearwhore · · Orange, CA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 0

Tagged for later. Thanks!

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

Climb El Potrero Chico is hot off the press and completely up to date (except for the new 2 pitch route I just finished and some new routes going in next to Access Denied and on the Mileski Wall).

This book is only 12 bucks and only available here in the Potrero.

Don't waste your $ on The Whole Enchilada--not only is it out-of-date but has hundreds, yes hundreds, of errors.

Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th edition.

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Ed - is the Whole Enchilada really that bad? My first time to EPC - Thanksgiving 2010 - the Enchilada served me great - didn't find any errors - I climbed a lot of the classics.

Maybe next time to EPC - if there is a next time - I hope things can calm down there, I will purchase your guide and will then have two sources of information. My reason for going with the Whole Enchilada for my initial guidebook purchase is it looks to be a more complete guide.

Thanks for keeping us uptodate on EPC, and for your continued route-setting. I enjoy your blog.

Wally

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

I can't believe you used that book and didn't notice any errors. They obviously didn't bother to proof-read before going to press and there are multiple typos on almost every page, including route grades. Every one of the picture diagrams has at least one mistake and the star rating system is totally bogus. There are dozens of excellent routes that got no stars at all.

Many people have told me, and I agree, that this is the worse guidebook ever published. It does have a brilliant, catchy, title and a glossy cover.

The book is now basically obsolete--at this point there are almost 70 new routes that aren't in there, border crossing procedures have changed, restaurants have closed, etc. The geology section is good, if you ignore all the typos.

Rob P · · Duluth, MN · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 458

If you plan on doing any climbing on the Outrage wall, Ed's book is the way to go. The Whole Enchilada's section on the most beautiful wall in the park is pitiful.

TJ Esposito · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

I am sold on Ed's book! I wish it was also available online so I could get a head-start picking routes; will grab a copy once I arrive.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

If you're here to climb the long classics you're going to be confused by The Whole Enchilada--you're much better off with the topos and correct info in my book.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

I'll give you just a couple of examples. Estrellita is a 12 pitch route with variations on the 3rd and 4th pitches. The Whole Enchilada does not explain this clearly and their info is very confusing. Lots of climbers have complained to me about that.

On Pancho Villa Rides Again there are two stations at the top of the 4th pitch, a comfortable one for belaying on the way up and a hanging one for rappelling with a 60 meter rope. The Whole Enchilada does not explain this and I see people belaying at the hanging belay and complaining about it afterwards.

There are numerous other such examples.

Every one of those photos you like with the lines showing the routes has at least one mistake so you can't trust any of them.

The Whole Enchilada exists because of Dane's huge ego--it's too bad he did all that work and then didn't go the extra step to eliminate all the errors. It's one thing to have spelling errors and another to get route grades wrong due to a typo.

TJ Esposito · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

So after 6 climbing days down there (good meeting you and Tami, Ed, at Posada!) here's my guidebook musings:

We had Ed's book, and my iPad with the MP app for photo-reconnaissance before embarking for the Potrero. I found some walls in the book had good descriptions of routes, particularly with regard to where they start. Others, you simply had to count boltlines and hope you didn't miss any. (I know the French Canadian lads that were down there got lost as well starting a route, but from a mis-labeled photo topo in Dane's book).

For the classics, there were either tags at the start, or photos of the start on MP, or they were the only climb in their area that made finding them simple (Space Boyz, Estrellitas, Pancho Villa Rides Again, TWZ).

On the other hand, for both Thunderkiss and El Sendero Diablo, we spent a good half hour for each scouting out the walls to make sure we were indeed getting on the intended route- there were a few manky tree trunks around the Thunderkiss start, and we didn't want to inadvertently start up one of the neighboring 1P 5.12's. For ESD, it's a bit ambiguous as to whether the right-most 4P 10b of Outrage Wall starts way right of ESD, or on the right side of that belay alcove; the markings on the topo simply indicating that the easier climb is "right and downhill", when in reality it's like 10 feet or so to the right of ESD.

I think the best enhancement to Ed's guide, especially for a first-time EPC climber, would be a phototopo for each area with some of the popular routes marked as reference points.

I really liked having topos of the popular multipitch routes; I tore out those pages and brought them with me on those climbs (SB, TWZ, Estrellitas).

Dan Petty · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 825

I can't really comment on Ed's book, but I can agree that Whole Enchilada was missing routes, had copious amounts of typos, and a star rating system heavily biased by the FA party (in favor of the author). Thankfully, I was able to re-sell the book before leaving. Buying it in advance, as I did, was not terribly beneficial. I recommend trying to get a used copy when you get there or at least compare the two books for yourself before buying.

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

is there anywhere online to get the Climb El Potrero Chico guidebook? I live on the east coast and would really like to get this ahead of time to get a layout and feel for the area and know what routes I want to go after. im hoping its been put up somewhere since this last posting of 2012 but I cant find it anywhere online. or possibly if I could buy it from someone local and have it shipped, that would be great too.

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
kurt gregory wrote:is there anywhere online to get the Climb El Potrero Chico guidebook? I live on the east coast and would really like to get this ahead of time to get a layout and feel for the area and know what routes I want to go after. im hoping its been put up somewhere since this last posting of 2012 but I cant find it anywhere online. or possibly if I could buy it from someone local and have it shipped, that would be great too.
buy ed's guidebook when you get there because it contains all of the new routes and updated info (which is important in epc where things are always changing).
If you want to buy a guide ahead get "The Whole Enchilada". It is not a great book (lots of incorrect/missing climbs) but the pictures are good and it works well in conjunction with ed's book that you buy when you get there.
download the mountain project app and the section for potrero as well, if digital is your thing.

link to book:
chesslerbooks.com/item/5630…
The Farley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 30

Dane's book is a great introduction if you are new to the area. While Dane's book is dated in regard to new routes, Ed's book is just lists of routes and is hard to get your bearings if you are not familiar with the area. Using both books has provided me with a lot of beta as well as entertainment regarding star ratings and grades.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
The Farley wrote:Dane's book is a great introduction if you are new to the area. While Dane's book is dated in regard to new routes, Ed's book is just lists of routes and is hard to get your bearings if you are not familiar with the area. Using both books has provided me with a lot of beta as well as entertainment regarding star ratings and grades.
This is my experience as well. Neither book works well on its own, but the two work well (enough) together.

In addition there is a two-volume guide to climbing in Mexico, and the North section covers EPC as well. Mexico Climbing Guide Books I've not used it, but a quick flip through the EPC section looked reasonable to me.
susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,756

Climb El Potrero Chico by Magic Ed 2014 addition is the most current. If you're set to grab a copy before arriving keep digging or to piggy back your idea, maybe have someone pick up a copy on a trip and send to you?

Notables - Posada was out of the copy when we arrived and saw that happen 2 other times while there for a few weeks but they did keep getting copies in.

Edguardo, the dude who makes pizza & does resoles over at Homeros has copies available, we got two from him. 150 pesos or $10 US.

Rumor has it one of the guys working at Posada is working on a new guide. Not sure how long or if that project will come to fruition.

Frank Madden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 15

The most current guidebook has just released digitally with Rakkup.com
It's the only guidebook with the latest routes, up to date color topo pictures and with accurate information such as bolts and heights. Check it out.

El Potrero Chico Rock Climbing Guidebook

This is the most up-to-date climbing guidebook information for El Potrero Chico. Just released in September 2016, this guide features over 600+ routes, including detailed descriptions and high quality topo images so you can find the routes that you really want to get on much easier.

Updates to the guidebook will also be available through the Rakkup app so that future route information can be added immediately to your guidebook once available from the author.

A printed version of the book will be available Winter 2016/2017.

The guidebook also has an Introduction section in it for guidebook information. In this there is info on When To Go, How To Get There, Where To Stay, Where to Eat (most importantly) and Emergency Information to help keep the climbers safer in case of injury from a climbing accident.

The guidebook is up for sale on for $15.99 USD. Rakkup.com

Rakkup El Potrero Chico Cover Photo Photographer: Kris Ugarriza Climber: Bobby Seal

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Congrats Frank! Glad to see this live.

Next time down there, I'm definitely going to spring for this!

Frank Madden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 15

Thanks so much, it has been a lot of hard work. Can't wait to keep making it better when I get down there in November.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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