Help me upgrade my helmet

I've come to the conclusion that I'd like a new helmet. My current one (an old Petzl Ecrin Roc) is too bulky and heavier than I'd like. A cursory look at the helmet market tells me that things have changed quite a bit since I was last shopping for a brain bucket. I am looking for something lightweight, less than <=$75, that is low-fitting so it doesn't loll to the side of my head and/or make me look like Toad from Mario Cart, and will protect not just from rocks from above but from potential awkward falls that might cause me to hit my head. I am looking at the Mammut Rock Rider, Wild Country Rock Lite, Edelrid Shield II, BD Tracer, BD Vector, Petzl Meteor III. Given my criteria, would you rule any of the above out or recommend one over the others?

My desire to go light means I am probably looking at a EPS foam helmet, but am worried about the durability of these things given that I've had a hard shell for so long. I realize that they aren't going to be for alpine use, but will they be able to sustain trips in a duffle bag or are they going to get dinged up very quickly if I'm not careful?

Thanks.

Everything you mention works great. 75 dollars can be hard to do. Honestly, a good helmet makes a big difference. Like most things, it really come down to comfort and fit. The "ultra high end" sirocco costs the most and is super light, but if it doesn't fit it's total crap. A BD half dome costs a third the price and may be way more comfortable. There all going to protect your head. Just my two cents.

the one that fits best ... regardless of price

some foam helmets like the meteor you cant just chuck in the pack and toss the pack in the trunk and then throw all yr gear on top ... you have to treat them properly ... that said ive been using the meteor for the last 4 years and despite a few little dings its still fine

some like the halfdome are a compromise with a harder shell and some foam ... again you need to be a bit more gentle than a pure hard shell

then theres the sirroco which folks stand and sit on ... its also the lightest helmet ... of course youll look pretty awful if you care about how good you look while climbing

but it all comes down to FIT FIT and FIT

if the helmet doest fit u, u wunt wear it ... thats all there is to it

;)

If you have a cheap head - buy a cheap helmet :). Seriously though, buy the most comfortable one with the fit and features you want. Pretty much all the helmets out there today are safe.

bearbreeder wrote:then theres the sirroco which folks stand and sit on ... its also the lightest helmet ...

This is surprising to me. I would have figured that it would be the most delicate since it has no shell...

scienceguy288 wrote: This is surprising to me. I would have figured that it would be the most delicate since it has no shell...

its a different kind of foam ...



;)

scienceguy288.....check out the Rock & Ice Magazine helmet review. Chris Rice is incorrect when he indicates that all helmets are safe. Seems most climbing helmets don't adequately protect from side impact (eg an awkward fall), but the Petzl Sirocco does. How much is your brain worth? The Petzl Sirocco is made from the same foam material that automobile bumpers are created from. They maybe expensive and ugly, but the Sirocco does the job of protecting your head better than the rest.

By WDW4
Nov 7, 2013
Global Village, Red River Gorge KY

Bob Dobalina wrote:
"I'm canceling my plan to climb el cap because I'm really concerned that the safety rating of my helmet is too low" - Said nobody in history, ever. I wear a helmet all the time with each of the sports I do. I like safe gear but helmets for rock climbers are about as important as helmets for sky divers. Plus a recent published article has shed light on the fact that rock climbing helmets are flawed in their design to begin with. They are designed take impacts mainly from above. Turns out, most head injuries incurred while rock climbing are caused from side impacts. And btw, I only pull out the stick clip when I'm dead-ended while aid climbing on a big wall bolt ladder with missing fixed pro. You can call that cheating if you want...

I'll address the idea that "because climbing helmets only protect impact from above and most climbing impacts happen from the side, I will not wear one". (Not saying you said that, Bob, but I have heard people say it before):

Rock climbing is a dynamic venture, where any number of things could collaborate to cause red stuff to leak out of any number of my body parts. I like my head most of all, though, for obvious reasons, and am willing to leave certain (less beloved) body parts unprotected. If my helmet only protects the top of my head, well that is just fine and dandy with me, as I think the topography of the top of my dome is just swell as-is. Helmets protecting top and sides too would be better, but I'd rather protect part of my body than none of my body.

The main thing is, always wear a diaper if you are near your limit.

FLAG
By Tyler Ryan
Dec 3, 2013
By Tyler Ryan
Dec 3, 2013

Bob Dobalina wrote:
Plus a recent published article has shed light on the fact that rock climbing helmets are flawed in their design to begin with.

You ought to link to that article. It seems like it would be a valuable contribution to the discussion.

Jorgeson and Caldwell reach the top of the Dawn Wall.

Benjamin Chapman wrote:scienceguy288.....check out the Rock & Ice Magazine helmet review. Chris Rice is incorrect when he indicates that all helmets are safe. Seems most climbing helmets don't adequately protect from side impact (eg an awkward fall), but the Petzl Sirocco does. How much is your brain worth? The Petzl Sirocco is made from the same foam material that automobile bumpers are created from. They maybe expensive and ugly, but the Sirocco does the job of protecting your head better than the rest.

So is the Sirocco the only helmet that does this? I find that hard to believe. What is "the" Rock & Ice review?

It seems you were quoting from this discussion. Besides the debate between Bob and Chef about whether one can still be a badass while wearing a helmet, what I got out of this thread is that (and correct me if I'm wrong), that hard shells do better at the top drop test and the foams do better at side/frontal protection. So, I should be looking for a helmet that is close fitting to the head and wraps around the back and sides as much as possible.

I also tracked down [this comparison:]] itkeepsyoualive.com/upload/… which would seem to suggest that the Meteor III offers equally good protection. From what I can gather the ce 1078 cert is for bicycling, so I can't tell if that is more or less stringent than the other more climbing-specific certs.

Marmot El Cap? I think it's got pretty reasonable side coverage (but thats from memory, too lazy to google.)

The new model Petzl Meteor, at $85-100. Not a hard shell (polystyrene covered by plastic shell), but the best rock climbing helmet that I've used.

Danbo1957 wrote:The new model Petzl Meteor, at $85-100. Not a hard shell (polystyrene covered by plastic shell), but the best rock climbing helmet that I've used.

Yup. It's between that one and the BD Vector. I'm going to try them both on and go from there...

go on steep and cheap. they have a bunch of climbing gear right now.

I have the BD Vector and have been using it for three ice seasons now. Great helmet and the fit rocks. My only gripe : It takes up a lot of real estate inside my hood. I've compared the "measurements" with other helmets and by far, the Vector is the elephant in the hood.

I've had hood/helmet "troubles" with a few of my shells/softshells. Thinking of making a switch to the Meteor just because it's a bit smaller. Size matters when it comes to a good fitting hood. Food for thought ...