3pt equalized anchor with limited extension

WillamR wrote: You lost your credibility at point 1. Dave Macleod doing the forbidden practice youtu.be/2yzvyAMIA3Q?t=3m

+1
Can't clip metal to metal is a myth. We clip caribiners to hangers and chain all the time. Is this not metal to metal?

Also I just had one leg of a a pre-equalized anchor completely cut by rock fall 400' off the ground. Had I been on a magic x I would have died. I'm not saying don't use them. I am saying if you choose to either be sure of the risk from above or double up the slings for redundancy.

Isn't an equalette the solution for a 3pt anchor that's simple to build with limited extension? Not no extension, but limited. It's pretty easy to add 4 pieces into the setup (clove hitches). Also, if you wanted more pieces in the setup and the setup only took 3, you could just connect two pieces in serial with two other pieces, which has no equalization on the 4th and 5th pieces, but it's fast to do and does still back up two of the pieces. Or just rig two pieces with a sliding x or an overhand using a spare sling and rig that into the setup (would need two of these extra rigs, so two extra slings and two extra carabiners... not too much extra gear)... Or for 5 pieces, a sliding x or cordallete from a sling for two pieces and an equallette to combine pieces 1-2-3 to the sliding x/cordallete 4-5. This last option is probably what I'd do out in the wild... Pretty fast and good enough for my taste.

Stone Nude wrote:Eli, I like that you're thinking and using time at home to practice. Most people, Internet Experts included, never get that far into the process. It sound like you're pretty new to the game but are intensely thinking yourself through possibilities like 5 piece anchors with shit gear that may blow, FA bumbling, adventure climbing, etc. That, in all seriousness, is rad. Here's where the useful advice comes in: you're doing exactly the right thing. I spent a lot of time as a total gumby stumbling my way up oldschool North Carolina multipitch with just a set of wires and a few sport draws, and I can tell you that reading all the books, asking questions of people that have a lot of experience, and PRACTICING systems and movements all made me capable of getting solid much faster than I would have living in an information vacuum. I've been climbing most of your life, and can tell you that you get out of it what you put into it. You should check out prices for cheap plane tickets to Vegas and come climb some old school routes at Red Rock, I'll give you the tour and show you some sick climbs. It's easy to kick some new kid in the dick because he showed up late to the party from your perspective. I think if Eli's willing to hop on a flight out here and climb his ass off for a few days he'll be the one helping new guys learn the ropes in a few years. Dead serious on the invite, son. PM me if you're interested. You're thinking in the right direction, I'll show you how this shit works in the real world and how to streamline. Keep at it.

Don't do it, kid.

Adam Burch wrote: Don't do it, kid.

I would but i don't have the money. i'm a poor ass highschool student

eli poss wrote: I would but i don't have the money. i'm a poor ass highschool student

I'd put a few bucks into a kickstarter fund for you just to see the trip report, I bet Adam would too

Have the old "Stone" pay to fly the kid out. Make sure he gets the parents permit sighned.

Miike wrote: I'd put a few bucks into a kickstarter fund for you just to see the trip report, I bet Adam would too

My gut is to say "yes", but if you're honest and sincere about it - why would we put him through that?

Paypal?

Stone Nude wrote:Eli, you should post an address where people from this site can send you checks to donate to your red rocks trip. Just built a 5 piece anchor and would have posted pics but was too busy climbing and not posting invective towards total strangers from my Cubicle of Hate. I bet you could make that flight happen for $3-400. Any takers?

im flattered but i have school and stuff. maybe i'll try to stay out west in the summer and take a trip to red rocks or something.

Summer in RR!

Cubicle of Hate!

DOUBLE LOL!!!

meh, i can take the heat. i'm from TN, where you get high 90s and 100% humidity in the summer.