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Routes in River Road Dihedrals
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BBQ Brush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bloody Elbows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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ker-THUD! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oxygen Debt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Peapod Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Root Canal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Unknown left of Ker-Thud. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Steve Cheney 1970, or Larry Bruce, Brian Kew, Rick Jack 1972 |
| Page Views: | 5,092 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Conner on May 4, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Aka: Bloody Knees - From the pullout for the River Road Dihedrals, this climb is easily located. It's the long acute corner with the wide crack. It starts off fairly steep but the angle rolls off toward the top. Slings can be spotted on the left face about 120' up.This climb is slightly harder than its neighbor Bloody Elbows. It's a pretty long and sustained pitch. There is some good hand jamming but if your wide crack technique is lacking (like mine), BRING BIG GEAR! Fun route.From the first set of anchors, you can continue about 20' to the ledge at about 5.9+/.10a, protectable by two bolts. Otherwise, rap with 2 ropes or 1x70m rope. Also, make sure to pull the ropes from far out from the wall and far to the left if you don't want to have to cut it after it gets stuck. If you look closely when climbing the route, there is a rope graveyard inside, of many ropes all caught in the same way at the same spot...
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