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Tears of a Clown
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 15
votes
Routes in Childbirth (Area at Arthur's Rock)
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Akavit V6 7A |
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Child Birth V8 7B |
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Gremlin Arete V0-1 4+ |
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Tears of a Clown S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Valhalla V9 7C |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | D. Bohn, B. Scott |
| Page Views: | 3,582 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on Jan 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: Warning: Tick marks, landings
Details
1) Always clean up your tick marks
2) Never damage/alter the landscape/resources.
- This boulder is right on the main Arthur's Rock trail, all tick-marks are considered an eye sore to non-climbers.
- Please don't risk future access issues by leaving without cleaning up your chalk.
2) Never damage/alter the landscape/resources.
- Please do not build landings at the Childbirth Boulder, the NCCC is working with LSP on a permanent solution to the landing erosion and deterioration.
Description
In the new Arthur's Rock Bouldering Guide, this is the TR "project" on the Valhalla Boulder.
I've climbed this route several times, probably first on New Year's Day 2000 if not prior iirc. I had never seen any chalk on it prior to my ascents, so that is why I tentatively put my name as FA, although the route is so prominent that it might have been done previously.
This is an excellent route, that, if it were in BC, would have been bolted years ago. As it is, it is a very worthy top rope.
Start right of center on the slabby green streak, then work left at mid height through the red steaks, then fire straight up the black streaks.
Ed: from FA Ben Scott:
"An amazing face climb on the south face of this prominent block. Start with a technical boulder problem to reach the flake past the second bolt. Catch a rest then continue up the stellar headwall on edges."
I've climbed this route several times, probably first on New Year's Day 2000 if not prior iirc. I had never seen any chalk on it prior to my ascents, so that is why I tentatively put my name as FA, although the route is so prominent that it might have been done previously.
This is an excellent route, that, if it were in BC, would have been bolted years ago. As it is, it is a very worthy top rope.
Start right of center on the slabby green streak, then work left at mid height through the red steaks, then fire straight up the black streaks.
Ed: from FA Ben Scott:
"An amazing face climb on the south face of this prominent block. Start with a technical boulder problem to reach the flake past the second bolt. Catch a rest then continue up the stellar headwall on edges."
Location
This is located on the huge, obvious boulder just below the final switchbacks to the summit of the Arthur's Rock trail.
Protection
TR. A long static line and a few pieces of gear.
Per Patrick Kehoe: this now has chain anchors.
Per Ben Scott: 5 bolts + a two bolt chain anchor.
Per Patrick Kehoe: this now has chain anchors.
Per Ben Scott: 5 bolts + a two bolt chain anchor.
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