Obed Trip - Questions

Planning a trip up to Obed the last week of March and I had a few questions.

Are dogs allowed at most of the crags?
Which walls stays dry during/or after rain?
Recommend walls(sun-facing) to go to on a cold day?
Any personal feedback from staying at "Lilly Pad Obed" campsite?
Also open to any random info about the area? ex. parking at crags, need to eat places etc..

• Note* Just ordered the climbing guide book, which may answer a good bit of these questions. But I decided to consult you guys as well.

Dogs are allowed at the crag, Del and Marte at the Lilly Pad have several and are great people. They do $5 camping on an honor system, and have a little store with odds and ends in it. Super great people and community of climbers. As for the walls, Stephen King Library is dry in a downpour, and there are a few other routes like alchemy and pale face that stay dry in the rain. You can also climb lilly bluff routes (heresy) in the rain.

Del and Marte's (Lilly Pad) is one of my favorite campgrounds. Hanging out and drinking by the fire at night is always a good time.

Some of the stuff at Lilly Bluff stays dry and also gets pretty good sun. I hear tieranny stays dry but I still haven't made it out to that crag. Stuff in the Stephen King Library stays dry. Y12 gets lots of sun.

We usually bring a lot of food to cook when we stay there. Wartburg doesn't have much as far as restaurants go. There's a pretty OK mexican place next door to a car wash. Can't remember what it's called but the town's tiny and you shouldn't have trouble finding it.

I wouldn't say that Y12 gets a lot of sun. It gets a little bit of morning sun. It is awesome and is one of the good warm day options (a lot of it will stay dry in the rain). But, getting into Y12 with a dog can be difficult.

Tierreny is great! Also, totally dry in the rain, but can be hot if it is above 50-60.

Ah yeah, thanks for that correction on Y12. Last time I went there, it was on a warm day during the morning and I just have this memory of it being hot as hell and greasing off of holds. Super fun climbing though.

Great info and good news! Thanks for the quick responses! Also thanks for mentioned that Y-12 descent will be difficult with a dog. We'll be packing lots of food, maybe go into town one night and check out that Mexican Restaurant.

Really looking forward to this trip! Just spent a weekend at The Canyon to 'get strong' and get ready for the roofs!

The Lilly Pad is awesome! Del is a super cool dude. Such a nice community there. There's a cold weather cook shed, plenty of free firewood and a really nice short trail to a sweet vista spot near the CG. You can walk from the Lilly Pad to North Clear Creek in about 10-15 mins. South Clear is a 20-25 min walk. Del brews a delicious beer and you can donate to that cause as well. Tierrany Wall in Obed is a must and it basks in the sun all day. Probably climable if wet/raining too.

Recommended routes: Spawn, Pet Semetary, Huecool Junior, Tales of the Sperm.

Bring a leash for your dog and be courteous. Many of the belay spots are small and adjacent to the trail. Tierrany (~20 ft steep section with hand rope) & Y12 (30 ft ladder) approaches could be very difficult for a dog (unless he can go in your pack).

"Which walls stays dry during/or after rain?" Stephen King Library (a .10, a few .11's and harder stuff), Tierrany (longest walk, best climbing) and Inner Circle @ North Clear Creek (shady, shortest hike, mostly 11's & 12's). As long as the temperature doesn't hit the dew point you can usually climb at these 3 in heavy rain. A large proportion of Obed routes stay dry in light rain.

"Recommend walls(sun-facing) to go to on a cold day?" (In order of decreasing popularity) South Clear, Tierrany*, West Obed*, Middle Obed.

"Any personal feedback from staying at "Lilly Pad Obed" campsite?" Wonderful.

Don't expect much out of Wartbug. I would recommend getting any supplies when you pass through Oak Ridge. If I remember right, the drive from the Lily Pad to Wartburg takes about 25 minutes, and I often felt that it wasn't worth the effort after a long day of climbing.

You can be at the grocery in Wartburg in under 20 minutes and they carry everything you need to get by as long as you don't go in expecting it to be whole foods... you're not going to find locally sourced snap peas in red curry but most folks in the area buy all of their food there.

It's called Darnell's and is one of the few locally owned groceries left around here. It certainly would be mutually beneficially for rock climbers to support the local economy.