First RRG trip ... need Tips and info

Hey! Im looking for some fist hand tips for climbing at Red River. This will be a first time trip for me and my wife in April and Im looking to find out what would be a good place to start in the Gorge. I would like to set up top rope for the most part for my wife though I will probably lead (5.7-5.9).
Ive been looking at the Red's climbing site as well and the online guidebook. but can be confusing since I haven't been there yet.

Any tips or info on the best place to start and camping areas would be good and helpful!

Joelski

Miguel's is the standard for camping down there. Land of the Arches is also pretty nice, and just a few bucks more per night.

Muir Valley is good for the grades you're looking at, although the moderate walls can be zoo's on the weekends during climbing season.

Best bet is probably to grab Ray Ellington's guidebook and to pick out whatever looks best. You'll most likely want Volume 2, covering the southern regions.

There are a lot of options but if it's your first time at The Red checking out or staying at Miguel's is great(Have some pizza too). You can get a feel for the culture just know sometimes it can get a little loud there in the evening.
Land of the Arches is a great campground as well with a good guy for a host(close to Muir Valley). Lago Linda's is great if you're up near PMRP(another climbing area) and better if you want some space/quiet.

With this being your first trip Muir Valley will be a good place to start climbing wise. Lots of options for climbing in your grade range. A good bit of infrastructure and some coins under each climb to help you find them. The Weber's are very nice people and can point you in the right direction if needed.

Daniel beat me to it. =)

marcin1 wrote:Daniel beat me to it. =)

Haha, at least I know I gave halfway decent advice.

I prefer Lago Linda's to Arches and Miguel's, but if you're spending a lot of time at Muir, which you absolutely should, Arches is just WAY closer and a lot quieter than Miguel's. And to get a bit of something different swing by Phantasia, Military, and Left Flank.

These cats have no idea what's really up. Go to Miguels, grab a brew and some pizza, meet some friends, and climb. Problem solved... It's really that easy. You are climbing in the SE. People are nice, land is accessible, and the guide book is bomb proof. What more can you ask? Good luck, and hope to see you out!

Can't buy beer at Miguel's or have an open container. Although I haven't had issue with that. Get beer at beer trailer up the road.

Kroger in Winchester on the way is a good option for shopping for food. Open 24 hours

Support the local economy where you can =)

Isn't there a Kroger off the exit before rrg. I think it's slade.

Sure is, it's in Stanton. It is small, much smaller than the Winchester Kroger. The produce in the large Winchester Kroger is better, it's a huge store. Stanton is also dry(no booze) and not 24hrs. But is a good option too otherwise.

Daniel Bologna wrote:Best bet is probably to grab Ray Ellington's guidebook and to pick out whatever looks best. You'll most likely want Volume 2, covering the southern regions.

I'd agree with this. The guidebooks are really good for The Red and for what you're climbing the North book has a lot more trad and generally more difficult routes. You'd be well suited with Volume 2 (South).

Just go to bruise brothers!!! Awesome place for beginners (no dogs allowed in muir valley though)

Muir Valley is great. There's plenty within your range and there are plenty of people that if you have to bail on anything under 5.11 it'll be easy to find someone to retrieve your gear. Bruise Brothers wall has great routes. The newish Guide Wall has a bunch of climbs for you too.

I prefer Land of the Arches for camping. It's quiet, showers are included and the giant steel building is nice during bad weather you can just crash on the floor in a pinch. If you're into the party atmosphere then Miguel's would be for you.

Eric LaRoche wrote:Muir Valley is great. There's plenty within your range and there are plenty of people that if you have to bail on anything under 5.11 it'll be easy to find someone to retrieve your gear. Bruise Brothers wall has great routes. The newish Guide Wall has a bunch of climbs for you too. I prefer Land of the Arches for camping. It's quiet, showers are included and the giant steel building is nice during bad weather you can just crash on the floor in a pinch. If you're into the party atmosphere then Miguel's would be for you.

Hahaha I wish this was the case....maybe quieter than Miguel's, but I would call it a good "Kentucky Quiet"

Bruise Brothers is definitely very good to get tour "feet wet". Very good quality routes, and grades stay moderate. Look in the guide, Muir Valley has a a lot of good moderate crags: Boneyard, the hideout, Tectonic to mention a few.
To stay MOST DEFINITELY Lago Linda, unless your are 18 and want to party all nigh at Miguel's ( but yes M pizza is wonderful) . I highly recommend the Rock House too for eating and great beer - which you cannot get at Miguel's -dry county-) have fun!

Awesome!! Thanks everyone! This will and does really help me in my planning! Probably will look into the southern region first since we'll be coming up from Tennessee at the time. We'll be there earlier in the week so I don't think we'll run in to the weekend crag commute so that will be nice.
Keep the advice coming!

I hope you don't mind if I jump in and ask questions here too

is a stick clip worth bringing?

will 10 quickdraws be sufficient?

any good rest day activities, I am particularly interested in the longish hikes.

what is the best hiking map for the area?

Thanks!

Definitely bring a stick clip, most routes are set up with the intention of using a stick clip and the first bolt can be 15+ feet off the ground and many times the hardest move is right off the deck.

10 draws will be sufficient for routes with 8 bolts or less... seems obvious to me? Most routes are around 8 bolts so you should be fine, at the same time just buy a few more draws, they would be like $25 whats the big deal?

LRL wrote:I hope you don't mind if I jump in and ask questions here too is a stick clip worth bringing? will 10 quickdraws be sufficient? any good rest day activities, I am particularly interested in the longish hikes. what is the best hiking map for the area? Thanks!

Stickclip - Yes
No...I'd say you want at least 12. You're limiting yourself with 10 draws between 2 people.
The Northern Region is the best hiking. Pitch 'em Tight and Grays Arch are good day hikes.
Distillery tours are also great rest day trips.

Camping - If you're into the mob scene and throngs of people and loud nights, then Miguels is the place for you. If you want a quieter scene then Linda's is where you want to camp.

If you have a dog - Land of Arches doesn't allow dogs in the campground nor does Muir Valley allow dogs in the climbing areas.

Muir has a plethora of easy routes. Left Flank is also a good place for easy routes. Go onto Redriverclimbing.com, click on the online guidebook and search routes by grade.

+1 on the stick clip. A lot of roots and rock rubble and other ankle breakers are at the bottom of a lot of climbs. Plus there are a few climbs I can think of that the crux is getting on the damn thing.

10 draws would be fine, 12 would be better. a lot of 10+ bolt climbs you can clip a draw and reach down and back clean the previous. You're also going to want a few slings so you can extend some as bolts aren't always straight or there are bulges and depressions you'll have to deal with to keep the rope from dragging on the rock.

you guys rock - thanks so much!