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Fraction of climbers who follow a hangboard-fingerboard program

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Climbing friends,

I return from vacation most enjoyable to Hawaii, where I experience the joys of enjoyable surfing, managing to flash a number of small, enjoyable wave.

I find that I am receiving of the dirty looks when I go surfing in front of someone already surfing on the wave. I also run my surfboard over anyone in the wave, including several small children. I think they would be doing the beating of me up, but thankfully I have large, sculpted and meaty guns with bulging veins to do the dissuading of my potential beach attackers.

I return to Colorado for flash, and find that my guns are perhaps not stronger after taking 8 days off, but also not weaker as well. This brings the joy to my heart. I also do not seem to have received the largebelly or much increase of size of manbreast. I perform a number of enjoyable, proud flash on the climbing rocks this weekend past, and although perhaps not my strongest flashings yet, they were quite difficult, bold, and enjoyable.

I would now like to return to the climbing gym to train and continue sculpting my guns on these weeknights, so that this weekend comings I may achieve even greater flash on the climbing rocks of outdoors.

May you please train hard and flash your most difficult, bold route yet.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Also, I find it unbelievable that Adam Ondra seems to be complaining in recent eveningsends.com article of being "tall" and "heavy" compared to world lead comp climbers! I believe he looks a tiny, emaciated, manboy.

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

da hui do not surf Waikiki, you run over other tourist, no problem haole

Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Aleks Zebastian wrote:Also, I find it unbelievable that Adam Ondra seems to be complaining in recent eveningsends.com article of being "tall" and "heavy" compared to world lead comp climbers! I believe he looks a tiny, emaciated, manboy.
It's all relative :) 5ft6in & 120lbs is big, for a horse jockey.
Travis Kaney · · Green Bay, WI · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 420
Micah Klesick wrote: haha I followed the Rock Prodigy hangboard training, but with more aggressive weight additions. 7 sec on, 3 sec off, times 7 sets, per grip. Then do the grip again, and add 7lb of weight and repeat the sets. I do that for 6 grips. Then the next time I do a session (three days later) I start at the added 7lb, and then add 7lb more the next set. I also have a pulley installed, so I can add or remove weight as needed. For example, on the 1/3pad crimp, I had to take off 20lb when I started, and when I finished my 6th set, I was adding 15lb to my harness. I don't climb at all during my hangboard phase, just hangboard and rest between. The rest of the time, I factor the type of training I want to focus on into my outdoor routes I choose to climb, and climb at least twice a week.
This sounds similar to what I do. I'm only using 4 different holds but incorporating lock-offs in the latter sets.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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