Hangboard Training for the temporarily crippled
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Hey folks. There probably has been much discussion on this, but I'm fairly new to the idea of using a hangboard. For some reason I decided it would be a good idea to tear my ACL and meniscus. So, with the ACL construction and meniscus repair surgery, I'm out of climbing for at least 3 more months. In the last 3 weeks since the surgery, I've started picking up a routine for hangboarding and have been trying several different things. |
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I had an LCL injury several years ago that was fairly debilitating. You don't want to do more than one fingery workout per week. Hands require a lot longer to recoup from an intense workout. I added in some rock rings and was doing pull up intervals for endurance. Rice bucket is also great for wrist and antagonist. You can do core workouts daily. Don't let the down time get to you. Stay humble and do what you can. I spent a lot of time helping my wife achieve her goals by being her belay slave and focusing on her. It was a good distraction while still being outside. Good luck! |
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I was on crutches for five months after fracturing/dislocating my foot, and was able to do two hangboard cycles during that time. You can still do endurance pretty well on hangboards jut by increasing the length and volume of your reps. I was doing 7 second hangs, one minute sets, and from 15-18 sets twice a week. Would also do a occasional weighted pullups or lockoffs, and a lot of core leglifts, windmills, front levers. |
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I recommend that you read through Steve Becthel's recent article on hangboard training and adapt it to your needs |
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Rui Ferreira wrote:I recommend that you read through Steve Becthel's recent article on hangboard training and adapt it to your needs climbstrong.com/articles/20… Good luck with the knee recoveryGood article, thanks for the link |
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Great info. Thanks! |
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Brian Hestetune wrote: I think I'm over thinking this.My take is that most people see gains in finger strength no matter the routine that is employed for hangboard training. Regarding your question if getting pumped is beneficial, the answer depends on what you want to train, if it is some aspect of endurance then the answer is yes/maybe, if you are after pure strength then the answer is no; rest as necessary between hang reps to gain pure strength. Either way after a proper hangboard session your fingers should be in a condition that you cannot climb afterwards and will require significant rest before the next training or climbing session. There may also be benefits to varying the hangboard training type throughout the year (the so called Randomness Effect), for example The Rock Prodigy approach may favor Strength Endurance, whereas Lopez approach appears to favor Maximum Strength, so depending where you are in your overall periodization plan you can use one or the other. Here is another summary article on hangboarding and isometric training stevemaischtraining.com/iso… |
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Rui Ferreira wrote: My take is that most people see gains in finger strength no matter the routine that is employed for hangboard training...I think generally speaking, this is true. However most in the non-injury-limited world want to maximize gains for their time input, so being careful as to how one hangboards/focuses time and injury is important (there is a post in the blog you linked to about training capital which I think is really informative in this respect). Just picking (at random) a hangboard routine and thrashing away will produce some gains, but not necessarily maximum gains. |
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Rui Ferreira wrote: Either way after a proper hangboard session your fingers should be an condition that you cannot climb afterwards and will require significant rest before the next training or climbing session.I think that really depends on how much volume your hangboard workout is. For non-repeater/endurance type workout, you should stop long before that. I've definitely done many max-hang type workouts that I see a drop in performance & stopped, but can still run laps on routes. |
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I didn't read what everyone else wrote but Digit Trainer is an awesome app for hangboard training and I love it. |