Harness: Petzl Sama or Adjama?
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I'm looking at buying a harness and wondered if anyone has any opinions about either the Petzl Sama or Petzl Adjama? Anything would be helpful. |
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I have had the adjama for about three years its still like new and I love it. It has adjustable leg loops for I can use it for pretty much any kind of climbing. |
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I'm not sure what kind of "helpful" opinion you are looking for. The two harnesses you listed are identical except for the leg loops (sama fixed, adjama adjustable). |
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I love my Sama but would never trad/alpine/ice climb in it. That's basically the difference |
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Luke Utley wrote:I'm looking at buying a harness and wondered if anyone has any opinions about either the Petzl Sama or Petzl Adjama? Anything would be helpful.They are both good comfortable harnesses, the biggest issue with them is that the rear gear loops suck. If you like to use your rear gear loops frequently i'd get a different harness personally. I use my sama for sport climbing, but if i'm racking up more than just draws i choose one of my other harnesses. |
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If you expect to climb in the cold, where you'll be wearing thicker layers to stay warm. You'll want those adjustable leg loops on the Adjama. |
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I have had a Sama for a few years, picked it up on super sale so no complaints. As others have said, it's fine for sport/TR/indoor but isn't really built for anything else. The lack of adjustable leg loops is annoying and makes it unusable for cold weather or alpine use. I find I get more crotch bulge in it than in my new harness. |
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To address the floppy rear gear loops. |
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i use the old orange sama just fine |
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bearbreeder wrote:i use the old orange sama just fine one thing ive found is that the lower tie in doesnt last too long, but the newer models have dyneema reinforced points for wear the rear gear loops are fine for me, i use it for trad and sport ;)I'm pretty sure the crapy rear gear loops are a new "feature" not found on the previous models. |
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kennoyce wrote: I'm pretty sure the crapy rear gear loops are a new "feature" not found on the previous models.No the old nylon sama had th same issue Heres my partner with the old nylon female version ... You can see it has the same well to the back loops Old style 5.9, malamute, squamish ;) |
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bearbreeder wrote: No the old nylon sama had th same issue Heres my partner with the old nylon female version ... You can see it has the same well to the back loops ;)Okay, i just know the last petzl harness i had prior to the current sama I have didn't have the crapy rear loops, but i bought that thing like 10 years ago so they may have a few iterations of the crapy ones now. |
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bearbreeder wrote:i use the old orange sama just fine one thing ive found is that the lower tie in doesnt last too long, but the newer models have dyneema reinforced points for wear the rear gear loops are fine for me, i use it for trad and sport ;)How do I know if it's a newer model versus an older model? How can I tell the difference? |
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Luke Utley wrote: How do I know if it's a newer model versus an older model? How can I tell the difference?Just look the harness up on petzl's website, only the current model will be shown. If it is different then you know it's not the current model. |
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goes like this. |
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Personally, I'm a big fan of Wild Country Harnesses. I used to love my Petzl harnesses, but lately, I just don't like them. |
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I think it's incorrect to assume that fixed leg loops are good only for sport climbing. I personally prefer fixed leg loops for everything, especially crack climbing when you don't have stupid buckles digging into you or catching on the gear. If you think about your adjustable leg loop harnesses, how many times you have cinched it down or loosened it back up? Not very often (at least I almost never do). The only thing adjustable loops are good for is for taking the harness on and off when you are wearing crampons or skis. |
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doligo wrote:I think it's incorrect to assume that fixed leg loops are good only for sport climbing. I personally prefer fixed leg loops for everything, especially crack climbing when you don't have stupid buckles digging into you or catching on the gear. If you think about your adjustable leg loop harnesses, how many times you have cinched it down or loosened it back up? Not very often (at least I almost never do). The only thing adjustable loops are good for is for taking the harness on and off when you are wearing crampons or skis. Some people like adjustable loops because they're worried about the fit - for example, skinny waist and athletic big legs. Usually manufacturers list the sizing specifics for the leg loops though, plus the fixed loops usually have a stretchy insert to accommodate our anatomical differences. If you decide getting the fixed loops, make sure to measure your legs and your waist to get it right.I agree. I have three harnesses, 2 without and one with adjustable leg loops and I prefer the non adjustable in almost every situation. I have a sama. Fine for indoor, sport, or light cragging. As everyone else has said the gear loops aren't awesome. That said I think someone whose never had good gear loops would probably have no issue with them, it's just those of us that have had them that complain. |
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The two Petzl harnesses you mentioned are both load-baring webbing harnesses. You should also look into laminated constructions or 3D-Vent harnesses. |
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Rob D. wrote: As everyone else has said the gear loops aren't awesome. That said I think someone whose never had good gear loops would probably have no issue with them, it's just those of us that have had them that complain.ive also owned dead bird, BD, etc ... harnesses .... i dont have any major issues with the petzl gear loops ...remember that Petzl athletes, including some very good ones, use those petzl loops just fine for trad/alpine/ice one advantage of those gear loops is that the front ones are farther back than some other harnesses ... which means the front gear hangs farther back on the body, interfering less with the movement when facing the rock ... whether this matters or not is a personal reference ive used both the "good" gear loops of the BD/dead birds and the "poor" ones of the petzl .... its all a matter of preference and habit ... its not what will make or break a climb for me For the older nylon samas ... This happens after about 1-1.5 years of daily use Last gen of the nylon (not dyneema) petzl sama ;) |
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doligo wrote:I think it's incorrect to assume that fixed leg loops are good only for sport climbing. I personally prefer fixed leg loops for everything, especially crack climbing when you don't have stupid buckles digging into you or catching on the gear. If you think about your adjustable leg loop harnesses, how many times you have cinched it down or loosened it back up? Not very often (at least I almost never do). The only thing adjustable loops are good for is for taking the harness on and off when you are wearing crampons or skis. Some people like adjustable loops because they're worried about the fit - for example, skinny waist and athletic big legs. Usually manufacturers list the sizing specifics for the leg loops though, plus the fixed loops usually have a stretchy insert to accommodate our anatomical differences. If you decide getting the fixed loops, make sure to measure your legs and your waist to get it right.I got rid of all of my adjustable harnesses, including my Petzl Adjama. Short of wearing a down suit, I have no need to adjust the leg loops. My wife climbs in a new Selena (women's Sama) and loves it. One of the best features is the solid ice clipper slots. My only complaint, one which she does not share, is that the harness only has two clipper provisions. I would buy a new new Sama for myself if it had four clipper slots. The rear loops are soft so they will lay down under a backpack. This is a common design feature in a lot of harnesses and not unique to Petzl. |