Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Joel McKillop
Page Views: 956 total · 8/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Dec 7, 2014
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Stop slobbin' and start slabbin'! Suggest change

If you are looking for a 5.9 that borderlines 5.10 (and is almost as cool as Blue Sky's Dragonfly) then look no further. GET ON IT!

This route has a tricky crux right off the ground so be ready to get physched early. Slap your hand up to a bomber jug to clip the second bolt. From there expect about two more cruxes involving small holds and tricky technique.

The cruxes end on jugs and rests are plentiful. Surprisingly difficult at times without being too in your face or on your ass.

The final crux ends with a classic crimps to pocket grab sequence that could very well be one of the better challenges this level of Spearfish Canyon climbing has to offer.

Finish with lots of ledges to the top and expect to get a bit pumped and winded since this is a big ole' bugger with a whole lot of climbing to a great view of the canyon.

Location Suggest change

Park at Sunshine parking lot. Walk west towards Newcastle. Find the thin green home post signs 21468 and 21472 and head up the hill. Turn left when you see the impressive overhung routes of Thunderhead's main wall and hike west again until the trail becomes a skree field of blonde rock. Nimbostratus is up the hill a bit from the other four climbs you will see. Unmistakable black slab.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a dozen draws. Open Anchors. Stick clipping the first bolt and highly recommended because of the exposure factor.

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