pain in ring finger DIP joint when crimping
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Hello all, i've attempted to search for comparable injuries - but not all symptoms seem to match to anything. Any help or advice would be appreciated, as my local hand specialist has no experience with climbing injuries. |
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The flexors muscles are what allow gripping and they run on the palmar side of the forearm with the tendons inserting into the fingers. Its their tendons that are kept in place by the annular (A2 etc) and cruciform pulleys. Finger extension comes from the muscles on the back of the forearm and from the lumbrical and interossei hand muscles. These join together and extend through to the DIP on the top and sides of the fingers. |
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free advice is worth what you pay for it. |
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bboyd wrote: I have had slow-onset pain in my ring finger, that is mostly noticeable when crimping... Pushing on the A2 pulley makes it feel slightly tender...The pain is mainly noticeable on top of the DIP joint when crimping (i don't feel pain around the A2 when crimping.) It is possible to perform a crimp and hyperextend the joint, but the pain (top of DIP) makes me hesitant use it for sure. I cannot recall any one instance that i heard any sounds or felt any acute pain - there was only slight soreness after a gym session. I climbed outdoors afterwards on mostly open handed holds, but after another gym session with more crimpers, the pain became much more noticeable... TBlairThis is me, exactly! Except it's my middle finger, not my ring finger. bboyd, I want to know.. How did your recovery go? What remedies, if any, did you try? Did you climb through it, or rest? Any lingering problems? |
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I'd be interested in this too, I've had very similar pains at various points throughout my time climbing. |
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Anson Call wrote: This is me, exactly! Except it's my middle finger, not my ring finger. bboyd, I want to know.. How did your recovery go? What remedies, if any, did you try? Did you climb through it, or rest? Any lingering problems?I injured both middle fingers this spring, if I tape them using the method shown in the image I feel almost no pain while climbing, but if I don't, every gym session is followed by pain in both middle fingers. Learning how to properly use this tape method made a huge difference for me. |
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Patrick Gillespie wrote:I'd be interested in this too, I've had very similar pains at various points throughout my time climbing. To treat I've only found success with some rest, climbing open handed as much as possible, and icing the finger. I've tried taking time off and it always ended up feeling the same after 6 weeks of no use, so I've been trying to climb through it slowly. I also have zero medical knowledge and am only running off of my limited trial and error.sounds like your muscles are stronger than your finger strength... wait, does that make sense? Yes. It sounds like you need to do some very careful training of just finger strength so that your fingers can catch up to your bulging forearm muscles. |
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I have exactly the same issue in my right hand ring finger. Its been a month and any advice would be much appreciated :) |
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Anson Call wrote: This is me, exactly! Except it's my middle finger, not my ring finger. bboyd, I want to know.Keep in mind that pain is a strange + funny thing. Like read up on "phantom limb pain", where amputees feel pain in a leg they don't even have any more. Just because you have the same pains as another climber doesn't mean you have the same injury. Just because you feel a pain somewhere doesn't mean that's the spot where the primary injury is - (read about "referred pain") Problem is that unless you go for expensive forms of imaging, pain is one of key diagnostic pointers that you have access to. And some injury-rehab practitioners who do not have direct authority to order more expensive tests might tend to rely on (more intelligently systematically elicited) pain reports (together with palpation) -- because that's what they've got to work with. Even after some more expensive diagnostic imaging, results might be inconclusive -- so making some educated guess based on your experience of pain might turn out to be as good as anybody's going to do. Can be tricky stuff. Hopefully for you it turns out to be simple. Good luck. Ken |
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kenr wrote: Keep in mind that pain is a strange + funny thingGood point. I worry so much that when I'm climbing, I'm constantly thinking about it. Maybe my stress was creating some "phantom pain." Anyways, the good news is that it hasn't bothered me since I took a 3 week break from climbing. Went to the gym two days ago, and I didn't feel any soreness at all! |