Advice for first mountaineering climb in the Alps

I have an opportunity to visit the Alps in the beginning of April for the first time. I would like to climb something and looking for suggestions.

What would be a reasonable objective for 2 people who lead 5.7 trad in New Hampshire and the Gunks and lead WI3 on ice. I don't think I have ever climbed rock in mountaineering boots and after reading up on the mountaineering grading scale, it seems that AD grades would be achievable. AD can have up to UIAA III climbing which translates to 5.3. That seems reasonable for climbing with a pack and boots.

I won't have skis for approach and I assume there will still be lots of snow. Is there anything that can be approached without skis in April?

Thoughts and suggestions appreciated, as well as advice on what gear to bring and other beta.

E

If you find yourselves in Chamonix I would recommend doing the Arete des Cosmiques on the Aiguille du Midi. This is a classic beginner route with snow and rock climbing. You can simul-climb most of it and it does require one or two short rappels in the middle. The technical crux is one pitch of rock at around 5.6 (edit: about 15 feet of technical moves with good protection:crack/cams), or it can be some of the snow pitches depending on snow conditions. The nice thing is that it finishes at the telepherique station to go back down to town.

Another climb is the North Face of Tour Ronde, a bit more committing as it is about 350m in length and will have a couple pitches of ice (edit: 60 degrees, ice grade 2), but is mostly a snow climb that can be simul climbed. The descent can be down the Northeast ridge towards Italy or down the Gervasutti couloir (50-degree snow) on the West side. Watch out for skiers on the North Face and also on the couloir as they are both popular ski descents.

Also in the same vicinity is Mont Blanc du Tacul, you can do one of the classic ice climbs such as Goulotte Chere (class 4 ice, but expect it to be stepped out and feel easier) and go to the summit or rappel back down (six to eight pitches depending how high you go). Stop at the obvious point below the ridge line if not going to the summit and want to rappel down, or if there are people climbing below (very likely) then go up to the ridge and down climb the North Face, via normal route (high avalanche and serac fall hazards, depending where you venture).

All of these approaches and descents can be done without skis. You will need crampons for all of the climbs. The rock crux on Arete des Cosmiques is climbed on crampons all the time (nice holes on the rock for the front points).

A final word of caution, avalanche conditions have been considerable to high this season in Chamonix, there are many suspect slopes with buried weak layers and slabs, check conditions and ask around before heading out. These three climbs see a lot of traffic every week if not every day, so it is likely that you be following well established trails.

I found this section of the Elaho guide to the Bugaboos to be really helpful in understanding the mountaineering grades.

Mountain grades

Comparison

EugeneK wrote:I won't have skis for approach and I assume there will still be lots of snow.

Many of the routes in the Alps (above all, but not only, around Chamonix) have approaches on glaciers which have crevasses. Crevasses which keep changing -- more rapidly in recent years of summer warming. Crevasses which in April will often be hidden by thin layers of snow which has not yet sunk or melted yet -- especially after a recent snowstorm with wind.

Keep in mind that without the larger surface area of skis to spread out the weight of your body and equipment, you are much more likely to punch down through a layer of snow into a crevasse.

Keep in mind that with the usual climbing party of only two persons that rescue after a punching down into a crevasse (even if the climber did not get seriously hurt already from hitting some protrusion in the fall) - is pretty tricky.

Even if you're carrying all the right gear and have practiced using it (in vaguely realistic environment?), most books recommend a party for crevasse-rescue of at least three, better four persons.

Ken

the grades for the routes above go as follows (Seriousness, Technical degree,French rock/mixed/ice levels):

Arete des Cosmiques: II, 1, 3c (rock equivalent to YDS 5.4)
200 m, 1 hour approach, 4 - 5 hours on route, some quickdraws, some shoulder length slings, same rock gear up to BD Camalot #2

Tour Ronde North Face: II, 2, M2 (mixed 2)
350m, 1.5 hour approach from Aiguille du Midi to bergshrund, shorter from Rifugio di Torino, 3 hours on climb, 1.5 hours descent from summit

Goullote Chere: II, 4 ice
300m in the ice gully, 550m from bergshrund to summit
45 minute approach from Aiguille du Midi, Camalots from green #0.75 to yellow #2 and stoppers, 4 to 6 ice screws

Grade II is designated as: no objective dangers or very short exposed sections. Rappel descent may be encountered

Technical degree:
1 = glacier travel with crampons
2 = pitches up to 60 degrees, short steep sections, good ice quality, good protection and good belays
3 = thick ice sections of 70/80 degrees. Steep sections, but good rest positions, good protection and comfortable belays
4 = continuous ice of 70/80 degrees between belays, with steeper or vertical sections. Good protection and belays

kenr wrote: Even if you're carrying all the right gear and have practiced using it (in vaguely realistic environment?), most books recommend a party for crevasse-rescue of at least three, better four persons. Ken

For the routes I recommended, the approaches and returns are OK for two persons roped together and prepared for glacier travel (roped, anchor equipment ready and practiced on crevasse rescue). I have found that traveling in these glaciers that a distance of 30-40 feet of rope in between is sufficient, tie some butterfly knots on the rope in between the two climbers. Unlike some of the major crevasse fields that you may find in Alaska or the PNW, the crevasses in Chamonix tend to be on the smaller side. Do not be surprised by the number of skiers and climbers that you will see traveling on glacier unroped.

Again, the path to the bottom of these climbs will be well trodden in April, unless you find yourselves to be the first ones out after a major snow dump, in which case wait for the skiers to clear out the objective dangers :)

There are some persistent crevasses coming off the East ridge descent of Aiguille du Midi on the approach to the Arete des Cosmiques (about 2 to 4 feet wide most years, that could be covered in soft snow). Also take a wide berth below the South face of the Aiguille itself as some of the couloirs occasionally avalanche and wipe out anyone underneath. The skiers may zip by, but on foot you will be taking a much longer time through here.

The alps are big range - like saying you are going to be in the Appalachia and want to go hiking. Where about exactly will you be? If around Cham, Rui Ferreira's suggestions are good ones especially the Arete des Cosmiques on the Aiguille du Mid. You can ride the teleferique up to the Aiguille du Mid enjoy the views, drink a coffee, and then go climb. The exposure is suburb and as stated there are perfect holes in the granite for crampons. That said if a blue bird day the first tram will be a bit poussée.

Rui Ferreira wrote:the grades for the routes above go as follows (Seriousness, Technical degree,French rock/mixed/ice levels): Arete des Cosmiques: II, 1, 3c (rock equivalent to YDS 5.4) 200 m, 1 hour approach, 4 - 5 hours on route, some quickdraws, some shoulder length slings, same rock gear up to BD Camalot #2 Tour Ronde North Face: II, 2, M2 (mixed 2) 350m, 1.5 hour approach from Aiguille du Midi to bergshrund, shorter from Rifugio di Torino, 3 hours on climb, 1.5 hours descent from summit Goullote Chere: II, 4 ice 300m in the ice gully, 550m from bergshrund to summit 45 minute approach from Aiguille du Midi, Camalots from green #0.75 to yellow #2 and stoppers, 4 to 6 ice screws Grade II is designated as: no objective dangers or very short exposed sections. Rappel descent may be encountered Technical degree: 1 = glacier travel with crampons 2 = pitches up to 60 degrees, short steep sections, good ice quality, good protection and good belays 3 = thick ice sections of 70/80 degrees. Steep sections, but good rest positions, good protection and comfortable belays 4 = continuous ice of 70/80 degrees between belays, with steeper or vertical sections. Good protection and belays

Thanks! Are ice tools needed on the Arete des Cosmiques in April? Or am I better off carrying a longer mountaineering axe for the glacier? One of each?

Rui Ferreira wrote:If you find yourselves in Chamonix I would recommend doing the Arete des Cosmiques on the Aiguille du Midi. This is a classic beginner route with snow and rock climbing. You can simul-climb most of it and it does require one or two short rappels in the middle. The technical crux is one pitch of rock at around 5.6 (edit: about 15 feet of technical moves with good protection:crack/cams), or it can be some of the snow pitches depending on snow conditions. The nice thing is that it finishes at the telepherique station to go back down to town. Another climb is the North Face of Tour Ronde, a bit more committing as it is about 350m in length and will have a couple pitches of ice (edit: 60 degrees, ice grade 2), but is mostly a snow climb that can be simul climbed. The descent can be down the Northeast ridge towards Italy or down the Gervasutti couloir (50-degree snow) on the West side. Watch out for skiers on the North Face and also on the couloir as they are both popular ski descents. Also in the same vicinity is Mont Blanc du Tacul, you can do one of the classic ice climbs such as Goulotte Chere (class 4 ice, but expect it to be stepped out and feel easier) and go to the summit or rappel back down (six to eight pitches depending how high you go). Stop at the obvious point below the ridge line if not going to the summit and want to rappel down, or if there are people climbing below (very likely) then go up to the ridge and down climb the North Face, via normal route (high avalanche and serac fall hazards, depending where you venture). All of these approaches and descents can be done without skis. You will need crampons for all of the climbs. The rock crux on Arete des Cosmiques is climbed on crampons all the time (nice holes on the rock for the front points). A final word of caution, avalanche conditions have been considerable to high this season in Chamonix, there are many suspect slopes with buried weak layers and slabs, check conditions and ask around before heading out. These three climbs see a lot of traffic every week if not every day, so it is likely that you be following well established trails.

What are your thoughts on the Dent du Geant? Is April the wrong time of year for that?

EugeneK wrote: What are your thoughts on the Dent du Geant? Is April the wrong time of year for that?

The normal route (South-West Face) is something that typically gets done later in the year. It has about seven pitches of slab climbing and there are very thick fixed ropes, depending if things are iced up it could make for an interesting climb and take much longer to go up and down.

In April I would try to do some of the ice and mixed routes such as the North Couloir or the North-East Face, but the approaches are more complicated coming in from the Periades glacier.

EugeneK wrote: Thanks! Are ice tools needed on the Arete des Cosmiques in April? Or am I better off carrying a longer mountaineering axe for the glacier? One of each?

It typically gets done with either one mountain ax or two tools, but if you are swinging into any ice you are off route. Expect to find plenty of snow on route in April, so go with what you are most comfortable with regarding snow pitches of up to 50 degrees.