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How often and how hard should I climb

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

Strength is not your limiting factor. Technique is. Focus on that.

drfloat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Joel Allen, it was just one V4, I'm still having plenty of trouble with a few of the V3s. And I have definitely focused too much on the bouldering.
Thank you Eric D, but this thread is concerning injury prevention and strengthening tendons to that affect. Any thoughts on that are welcome.
Thanks Jon Marek, I'm not getting any shoulder or elbow pain. I think I'm just hitting the boulder problems too hard like you said.
Y'all are killin it with the advice. Having a plan that meets my developmental needs and prevents injury, before I hit the wall, definitely allows me to relax and enjoy the experience. Otherwise "my panties are in a bunch" (-lee moses) the whole time and I worry that I'm climbing too hard or I'm going to pull something.

banski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 10

Shaky hands = alcoholics. My grandpa shook like an aspen leaf and never climbed a foot of rock, drank like a fish though. Grant it, a lot of climbers have a drinking problem so there goes the assumption about shaking hands related to climbing. True about docs not climbing, or just being weekend warriors and calling themselves climbers, cos they don't have time basically. That's my explaination. As for the girl with eczema, that's just a lame excuse not to go climbing. Lots of those out there as well.

goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 30

I dont understand the logic behing Dr.'s not climbing. Sure Primary Care Physicians work m-f and would tend to be weekend warriors, but I work with several ER docs, who work 12-16 shifts a month, one of whom just left on a trip to Yosemite for 10 days of climbing. Hospitalists, Intensivists, Radiologists, on call specialty docs all have rotating schedules, and There are many who are just as if not more likely to get after it than most other people. I work with another Dr. who works consecutive doubles to cram a months shifts into two weeks, then takes two weeks to travel, sail, ultrarun and climb (ice and rock).
Where does this presumption come from?
my frustration here does not come from an insult, rather a bafflement in a repeatedly stated misconception based not on facts, knowledge or anything real other than an opinion the poster or stater clearly has zero knowledge about.
Just because you dont climb with Dr's doesnt mean Dr's dont climb.

Altered Ego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

I'm confused. It sounds like you don't do any climbing, just working out at an indoor climbing wall. Have you tried climbing yet?

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

One of my new partners is a medical doctor. He just sent a 5.12c outside too. Next month he is going to climb a wall. So yes, some doctors climb. I also seem to recall an article from way back about a doctor who climbed V13ish. Forgot his name though. I seem to recall the article mentioned had the same medical condition he treats (like an oncologist with cancer).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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