Question about access/camping in Sedona from an out-of-towner

I'm trying to plan a whirlwhind 2 day trip from the SLC area of UT to Sedona, and neither me nor my partner have been. Hoping to get some local feedback.

We'll have 2 full days of climbing, and we're wanting to tag some of the multipitch towers. My thought was Day 1 doing Earth Angel and Made in the Shade in Mormon Canyon, then day 2 tagging (and this is where I'd like some input) The Mace and Supercrack Tower.

So here's my question: is there any camping (and we'll be sleeping in our car) close to Mormon Canyon, so that we could spend the night in the relative vicinity of The Mace, wake up, do The Mace, then head out towards the Midgley Bridge area/Supercrack Tower? Or is that too spaced for a single day? If it's too spaced, any recommendations closer to Midgley Bridge area for a multi-pitch route up to 10+?

I'm having a hard time piecing together the lay of the land from the guidebook/MP.

Thanks!

Sam Cannon wrote:My thought was Day 1 doing Earth Angel and Made in the Shade in Mormon Canyon, then day 2 tagging (and this is where I'd like some input) The Mace and Supercrack Tower.

This is pretty ambitious, to say the least. Earth Angel is a full-day adventure if you haven't been on the route before, especially during this time of year when daylight is limited. I haven't done Made in the Shade, so I can't speak to that. Bivying in Mormon Canyon the night before you do EA might be a viable option; it's kind of a long, convoluted approach.

Good luck!

i agree, earth angel and made in the shade is really ambitious. EA and goliath may be a bit more manageable since it's along the approach to EA. also, the mace and supercrack tower are at opposite ends of sedona. try doing two routes on supercrack, or do something on steamboat rock. also, the mace and coyote tower make for a solid two route day, the routes are easy to find and have pretty short/easy approaches (if you're not retired or overweight like many sedona visitors).
also, what days are you gonna be there? i'll be climbing some routes near the mace on sunday, and in west sedona on saturday.

Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered EA and MitS too ambitious because of the relative moderate nature of both climbs, but I'll perhaps trim my expectations to not be too disappointed if we can't fit both in.

Yeah I don't have a feel for how big the climbing area is, so thanks for weighing in. I guess we'll have to decide which of those two routes (Mace and Window) we want to do more and then find other enticing things in the vicinity.

We'll be there this Sunday/Monday.

Regarding camping - we'll be getting in after dark on Saturday night -- if climbing in Mormon Canyon the next day where should we camp? Paid or free we'll be sleeping in the bed of the car.

Also, the Sedona Rocks! guide by Bloom and Wolfe lists the approach for EA as taking 1-1.5 hrs...is that right? Also any feel for how reliable the approach beta is?

Thanks again, dudes!

Approach for EA is 1-1.5hrs if you don't miss any turns. Not sure if you can get away with camping in vehicle in the parking lot there or not. Camping on Dry Creek Rd might be an option, not sure what the rules are there.

Mace and Oak Creek Spire, could be another good two route day.

there is paid camping in oak creek canyon as well as around sedona itself. you could probably get away with camping at the jordan rd trailhead parking lot, which would put you right at the start of the EA approach.

Any unpaid camping in Sedona will need to be incognito and not necessarily easy to get away with. You can test the waters and if you want free camping, drive west out of Sedona to the edge of town, where some dirt roads wander off from the south side of the paved road. Or, go east up towards Flagstaff. Once you get up on the rim (Oak Creek Overlook), the dirt roads on the left offer free camping.

EA approach is 1 or 1.5 hours if you don't get lost. Instead of linking routes you may want to consider one of the big three free climbs of Sedona- Into the Wild, Great Dihedral, or People's Republic of Vermont. All 3 are excellent. If I were you I'd link EA and the Mace in a big day and then the next day climb one of the big free climbs. That would be two big awesome days.

Hope you like choss.

There is free camping on FR525, which is about a 20 min drive from parking for EA.

Try camping at my fave warm winter spot south of Sedona. Especially useful if you do the Mace and Coyote Tower.

Just drive south of Sedona on Hwy 179 to village of Oak Creek. Continue south and just out of town look for Beaverhead Flats Rd and turn right. Soon you'll come on some flat areas in the chapparal and pinyons accessed by dirt roads. STop wherever you wish in the desert.

Agree with the other beta posts... Sedona can be slow and hiking can be the crux in itself. I like the BH Flats but sometimes can be a little hillbilly on the weekends. There is some other free National Forest Camping out Dry Creek Rd. which also West Central Sedona.

Prepare to get loose!