Broken Hold Lev 29 - Reattachment question
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This may be a dumb question, but I want to make sure I fix it properly. After arriving late Tuesday night, my partner and I went out and climbed Levitation yesterday - in spite of getting lost on the beautiful approach and it taking us 4 hrs. |
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Andre H. wrote:This may be a dumb question, but I want to make sure I fix it properly. After arriving late last night, my partner and I went out and climbed Levitation yesterday - in spite of getting lost on the beautiful approach and it taking us 4 hrs. Super gorgeous back in the canyons with running water in the creek and snow up high! Breathtaking! It is our first visit to Red Rocks and we went for one of the mega classics right out of the gate - Levitation 29. One thing that struck us as odd, and I had heard a reputation of Red Rocks being this way (in addition to soft grades), is chossy. On the second pitch there was a fang of rock beneath a roof that my second yarded on a bit too hard. The lower portion snapped off in her hands and I quickly lowered her to the top of P1 where we left the hold since we thought there was a party below us. I estimate the weight of it to be about 5 lbs or so? Maybe the size of a small blender? The adhesive would have to be strong for sure. We plan on stopping by a home depot we saw on the way to REI and getting some sort of glue to put this back on tomorrow since we are going back up to go finish the route. My partner was kind of freaked out by the choss factor at Red Rock and is swearing off sandstone climbing now, LOL. I read the route gets better above the broken hold anyway.No! Do not epoxy holds back on without input from local climbers. In most areas using epoxy, even to repair broken holds, is not acceptable. I do not believe Red Rocks is an area that accepts the use of epoxy (based on my 10 trips there and never seeing epoxy anywhere), but you would have to check with the locals. Further, epoxy would likely not hold a 5 lb block on without something holding the block in place to allow the epoxy to cure. Further, even if you epoxied the hold back on, managed not to drip epoxy all over the route (which is easy if you dont know what youre doing), and found a way to position the block in place so the epoxy would cure, there is a very good chance a hold that large would just break off again as soon as the next climber grabbed it. Epoxy works for reinforcing holds; it doesent work so well for gluing large holds back on. Maybe Wilder will chime in, otherwise call Desert Rock Sports and ask for one of the owners. They can point you in the right direction. Also, you cannot just use any "glue" at home depot. The correct option would be to buy two-part, chemically cured anchoring epoxy, the type that mixes in a nozzle and is used for glue-in bolts. If you do not know what you are doing you are liable to just drip epoxy all over the route and make things worse. |
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Oh wow. This outta be good. |
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CJC wrote:please tell me yer trollinThis was my thought. |
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This should be fine: |
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Looks like someone needs to attend the 6hr "WHY WE DONT CLIMB ON SANDSTONE AFTER RAIN" class |
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You guys broke the dagger?!? with the little hueco in the bottom?! Bummer |
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I really wouldn't worry about it. It happens and the fact was that the dagger just looked really cool. it's non-essential to the climb so I would just leave it be. |
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This has to be a troll ... or I have lost all hope |
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If I break off a hold, I usually just duct tape it back on..... |
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I'm hoping it's a troll. But are we talking about this fang, the super-obvious down-facing one in the pic? The one that is about one body length above the lower climber? |
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Seriously, this must be a troll. |
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Climbed this pitch last November without using the "Fang" because it was loose. Didn't change the grade, in my option. Do not glue it back on. |
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YES!!!....it's a dumb question. NO Epoxy!!! Oh and....RR is NOT chossy. Holds break occasionally on the best of stone. Especially when n00bs are pulling out on holds after a rain storm. |
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You climbed today in RR?!? With obvious wet sandstone.... :( |
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FFS is every route there going to turn into a 5.13 before people stop climbing there when it's wet? |
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Ole Andre is awfully quiet...do you think we scared him off? Comes to the well for advice, and gets shredded |
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Reading the op again, i realized its definitely a troll lol |
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fang pitch of levitation 29
Here is a pic from our climb just below the fang. We did ask an REI employee about climbing when its wet and he told us the rule is 6-10 hours since it is so dry in Las Vegas. I think it had been at least that long by the time we got out there so maybe it was just the fangs time to go. Our other friends who went to kraft that day said the crimps felt pretty dry overall. It is just such a cool feature that we thought it would be best to at least try and repair. |
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Well your are an idiot and i hate you |
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This is why I prefer granite...so dumb. |