What was your first trad 5.12?

post em up! what was your breaking into 5.12 trad route and what sort of style did you employ? Breaking that grade range in the northeast seems to be a bit more serious than out west for some reason. Share your routes/thoughts on the subject.

I ate a twinky once while watching a dude climb a ten-something on gear one time......That's the closest i've ever gotten to leading a 5.12 on gear.

AlanJ wrote:I ate a twinky once while watching a dude climb a ten-something on gear one time......That's the closest i've ever gotten to leading a 5.12 on gear.

Think it was a Clif bar for me.

Hi Jaysen. I see you're still tearing shit up! :-)

I placed a piece of gear once on a runout sport 5.11, then bailed from the next bolt...

Black planet, at Rumbling Bald. For full disclosure, it has a bold protected crux. I redpointed it; I think it was my third try.

What a clever way to announce that you climb 5.12. We're all so proud of you!

Would 2 back to back pitches of 6 count as 12?

Jaysen Henderson wrote:post em up! what was your breaking into 5.12 trad route and what sort of style did you employ? Breaking that grade range in the northeast seems to be a bit more serious than out west for some reason. Share your routes/thoughts on the subject.

I don't think it's necessarily more serious to break into the 5.12 grade in the East than in the West. Yeah, there are a lot of scary, R-rated 12's (especially at the Gunks), but there are also some great safe ones that are perfect for breaking into the grade, at T-wall, the New, and yes, even the Gunks.

My first 5.12 was Coyne Crack at IC, because way back when I did it, it still got that grade in the guidebook. I had to project the hell out of it.

I have yet to lead a .12 but I did follow one at the Spiders Web that seemed very doable for a first twelve. I only fell once near the top because my foot blew off a small high foot. The climb is called White Knight and follows a continuous crack to the top. Plenty of spots for gear. My partner managed to onsight...

FrankPS wrote:What a clever way to announce that you climb 5.12. We're all so proud of you!

His personal page says he only follows Trad 5.12

WiseOldMoon wrote:The climb is called White Knight and follows a continuous crack to the top. Plenty of spots for gear.

White Knight was my first 12a on gear, and it is a great choice if you are looking for a first 5.12 crack. Great climbing, very well protected, clean falls, etc. If you want to suss it out on toprope first, you can easily drop a rope on it by climbing On The Loose (10a) to the shared anchor.

Pnelson wrote: My first 5.12 was Coyne Crack at IC, because way back when I did it, it still got that grade in the guidebook. I had to project the hell out of it.

I'm right behind you, I almost sent the coyne crack simulator up in beef basin once.

Does TR count here?

If you live in Keene Valley as your profile states, then White Knight would be the most convenient one to go after. It also happens to be an awesome climb.