pulley injury? cancel trip?
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I was climbing and grabbed an awkward hold while bouldering and I felt a pop in my finger but it wasn't an audible "pop". I immediately stopped climbing. |
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It is likely the A2 and it is likely a cat 1 strain and not a full rupture. Dr. Schoeffl's standard for this is 4 weeks of rest with lots of ice, then climbing again with it taped for a few months. He is the top guy in the world for this. Without taking at least a few weeks off, you will have it heal but it will not heal really well. It will be more likely to blow out in the future. If I were you, I'd cancel so I can climb in the spring, summer and fall. |
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thank you for the advice! Yeah I was afraid of that, at least I' planning a trip in the summer so I won't be missing out completely... |
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Rest. You will regret not healing properly every time you pull on that finger and it hurts, or worse, re-injures...REST! |
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I don't think you should do weighted chinups, period, but that is a different chapter! |
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Yosemite sure has a lot of options. Just climb stuff like this where you won't be pulling on that finger much (ala Glassberg): vimeo.com/116918309 |
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I did some light bouldering and crack climbing at the gym tonight. I taped my finger and it didn't hurt so I'm going to see how it feels tomorrow and if it hurts worse tomorrow I'm going to call the trip. (probably not advised but I need to figure out if I'm going or not by tomorrow) |
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I've had two prior pulley tears in my life, tape allowed me to climb but prolonged the healing process to upwards of a year for both. I'm nursing yet another pulley tear right now (thought I learned my lesson but then built a 45 degree climbing wall in my garage, equipped it with crimps, had a few beers, hopped on without warming up, and then...audible "pop!"). This one, however, I've followed a protocol of no climbing, ice, warm water and massage (increase blood flow) for 4 weeks and it's feeling pretty good. Will give it a few more before hitting anything too intense. |
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Seems like everyone's said this but sadly you should rest it.....I've had a number of finger injuries over the last 17 years and I never rest them, and it always take's forever to heal! |
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Friction slab, offwidth, handcrack, long easies, aid, toprope, hike? |
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Haha great....... I mean I am going back in the summer for a month so it won't be a complete bummer but it would be nice to get my feet wet first.... The only really annoying part is I'm going to be home the whole time thinking about Yosemite.... Thanks for all the advice guys! I really appreciate it! |
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Jason, |
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Well my finger is a little sore from the light climbing yesterday but doesn't really seem to hurt more. So I think the smart thing to do would be to cancel the trip and rest.... Thanks for everyone weighing in! |
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Cancel and rest. |