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Needles South Dakota ICE CLIMBING ?!

Original Post
Eric Klose · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 15

I just saw pages for the few ice climbs at Sylvan Lake and then read about some sort of alpine/ice climb that may exist on the backside of Harney's peak. Does anyone know if these flows are reliable or has anyone been out this year? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Talk to mike m over at Supertopo, and have a look at the Black Hills thread there.

Mikel Madsen · · Rapid City SD( raised) and… · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 8,677

The Harney flow is a beautiful reliable ice flow that comes in on the Northface. Best approach and to view is Palmer Gulch. It is also referred to Black Elks Tear in some instances.
As for Sylvan there is the backside of the dam, the Honey Bear Flow up by Poets Table. I have made two FA on ice near trail number 4. The Trail 4 ice is a pillar and is really really good if it's snowed a lot. There is also a small 4 foot wide chimney gulley to the left of this that has a fun ice climb as well. Hope this helps on the matter. -Mike M

Phil Berggren · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 35

Eric, See the Palmer Gulch section of the Busse/Burr guide for a little more location and approach info for the Harney Flow. There is a photo taken from the parking area/trailhead. A better (distant) view of the flow can be had from atop the pigtail bridge north of the TH on the Palmer Gulch Road. I think Mike M has posted a photo from that spot in his Black Hills thread (a great thread, btw) on ST.
Mike, Is that pillar you mentioned on Tr 4 in the old shaft behind Photographers? Did you drop a rope off the bolts to form (farm?) it? Are those your bolts? I have wanted to do that for a while but have never got the timing and temps and schedule and snow together at one time.

Mikel Madsen · · Rapid City SD( raised) and… · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 8,677

HEY PHIL.
I work at Sylvan Lake in the summer months. One day in March I was out hiking and of course in March never fails with the random freak wet snowstorms. This is a prime time for this ice. there is the pillar which can be very fat or thin at the bottom fat up top. I have only ever built an anchor. If there is an anchor its covered in snow usually. There are 2 climbs there is a small chimney to the left that can be climbed also. Cheers! -Mike

P.S. There are 2 ice climbers from South Dakota Mike Mcneil ( Spearfish) of which this forum is intended I believe. and Myself Mike Madsen ( Custer)

GregMartin · · Rapid City SD · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 0
Eric Klose wrote:I just saw pages for the few ice climbs at Sylvan Lake and then read about some sort of alpine/ice climb that may exist on the backside of Harney's peak. Does anyone know if these flows are reliable or has anyone been out this year? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Eric,
We've been here since Tuesday searching for ice,No luck.
It's been really warm the last couple of weeks. Heading to Spearfish this weekend but most likely more of the same
Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 378
Haney Ice Flow 3/2/15

There is ice in SD. Just have to go look for it

Its hard to say the conditions of any thing this year fluctuating warm and cold make it a crap shoot.
Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,555

Little late to this thread, but there is some ice in the hills but nothing to great. What it lacks in quantity and length it makes up for it in ease of access allowing one to keep the tools sharp so to speak. Mike Madsen are you talking about the ice just behind the upper parking lot at sylvan? If so I believe Brent, Johnny Walker and Nona all did those years ago. I have never gotten them done though, but they sound good. Are you still doing the bouldering guide? If so I know of a bunch of problems you may be interested in.

Mikel Madsen · · Rapid City SD( raised) and… · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 8,677

Indeed, Brent thought I may have been the first although I didn't really matter. I have never heard anyone else climbing them. The pillar needs to be thick to lead. I broke it on my first attempt none the less a nice "longer" pitch for the area. yes, Still am. Would love to have you show me stuff. Trying to wrap it up but would really like to see what you know on some of the obscure areas. Thanks Mike

Edward Wyant · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 15

Hello All,

I am relatively new to the area and to ice climbing. I am exploring the different climbs in the area. I made it up to the Palmer Gulch flow and then attempted the old trail (unmarked or named) up to the Harney flow. The old trail up to the Harney flow and the north side of Harney was a disaster with fallen trees, is everyone still using the Palmer Creek trailhead to access the Harney flow? Or is everyone optimg for one of the named and maintained trails?

Thanks in advance!

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,555

It is a mess. Not sure you can do it with out a lot of tree hopping.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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