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Cunning Linguist · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,200

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sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445

My vote for the corner on Black Orpheus is 5.7, it's not as hard as some 5.8s in Red Rock (crux move on Varnishing Point, Ragged Edges, etc)

Sensous Mortician was really really easy for 5.9. It might be hard convincing people to go all the way to 5.7 on it, but it's about as strenous as that finger crack on Fold Out right next to it.

Y2K should be no harder then .9, and realistically it's an .8, except for the last ten feet of the 4th pitch.

Hmm...what else....wanna call Epinephrine 5.8?

sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445

I think he listed the first pitch of Sour Mash as 5.9, the one where you traverse left clipping a couple bolts. I would be happy voting for .10a on that pitch.

sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445

Armatron...5.8? Too many good holds right near the bolts. Just not 5.9, like, at all.

Black Dagger....5.8? I hate retro grading Joe Herbst, but this is 5.8, probably. Maybe not in Josh, but compared to 5.8's in Red Rock.

How about Solar Slab Gully, 5.5 or 5.6. Calling it 5.3 sends the wrong message (thinking of those planning on down climbing...)

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Alright, I'll play...off the top of my head:

Sandbags:
Wholesome Fullback
Dean's List
P1 of Sour Mash

Soft:
Our Father (final pitch)
Most things in the Black Corridor
La Cierta Edad
Critical Cams

Likeasummerthursday · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 90

This is fun.

Eagle Dance: the free moves out of the bolt ladder are a sandbag at 5.8. The pitch after the bolt ladder is a sandbag. Felt 10+. Same with the following pitch.

Black Orpheus corner: 5.7+ Definitely a sandbag, but it is too low-angle to be harder than 5.8.

Jubilant Song: both pulling the roof after the epic traverse and the thin, steep slab up the black water streak both felt significantly harder than 5.8. I may have been weak or scared that day, but I don't remember being both.

Sour Mash: p1 is a sandbag

Birdland: except for the p3? traverse past the bolt, the whole route felt soft. If p2 of Olive Oil is 5.7, then the 5.7 pitches of Birdland are 5.6-

Grant Mercer · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 246

Unsure if Meetup is even in the newest edition of Red Rock Nevada Climbing Guidebook, but the Upcoming meetups is not much of a 5.10a. Very simple and easy clips, 5.9+ at most. Pumpkin King was also pushing it but there's at least one 5.10a move so I guess I wouldn't say bring it down.

Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 277
Weston L wrote:Soft: La Cierta Edad
Agreed!

And I felt like Orange Clonus (esp 1st pitch) was pretty stiff for the grade.
Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 995
Weston L wrote:Alright, I'll play...off the top of my head: Sandbags: Wholesome Fullback Dean's List P1 of Sour Mash Soft: Our Father (final pitch) Most things in the Black Corridor La Cierta Edad Critical Cams
Sandbags: Out of control - full on 10+ / 11a for me.
Small Purchase - felt more like 10c to me.
1st pitch Sour Mash - I also thought the hardest moves (basically first moves into the real climbing) were spicy and not well protected.
Nico C · · mt shasta, ca · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Black dagger did feel like 5.8 compared to others. PG13? A fall on that thin move starting the second pitch would be nasty. Cool route!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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