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Flatiron question.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
George Bell wrote: Aside from the First & Third Flatirons, you are unlikely to run into other climbers in the Flatirons (and as others have noted the Third is closed in June). In most cases you can expect an hour approach or more.
George?
Isn't that a little exaggerated?
A fit individual should reach almost any flatiron inside of an hour.
Some take more, but I'd hardly suggest that "most" take an hour or more.
KyleT · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 5

As mentioned before, Eldorado Canyon would be a good alternative, the red garden wall has many classic options and you can mix match a lot of the routes that cross the red ledge between Rewritten and the Yellow Spur to suite your comfort level.

If you find yourself looking to push your grade a little:

Long John Wall 5.8 (start on first pitch of Break on Through) - West Ridge
Gambit 5.8 - Shirt Tail Peak

Also a drive up to lumpy ridge is certainly worth the trip.

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

Jon, your goal of mid-June, Boulder, Flatirons, 5-6+ pitches, 5.5-5.6 range, presumably of higher quality actually limits things down quite a bit. FWIW, the 1st Flatiron, IMHO, is much higher quality than the 2nd, 4th, and probably 5th Flatirons. Routes for your search patterns on the 1st might include: Direct Route, 5.6 PG-13/R, 7 pitches (popular) and Butterfly, 5.6 R, 7 pitches. Both are good, Butterly will be less crowded until you hit the ridge (North Arete). 30m rap off. The rest seem to vary outside your parameters. The approach will be ~1/2 hour.

The 4th has longer potential, but it's broken into 3 plates, so the routes feel less continuous. The East Face has a route that's 8-9 pitches, 5.4 PG-13/R.

The 5th has routes only to 4 pitches.

The 2nd is a wee bit scaly for a destination crag. I wouldn't recommend it.

Skunk Canyon has longer climbs like Stairway to Heaven, 6 pitches, Ridge One, walkoff, but that checks in at 5.3. The 2nd-4th Ridges will be closed for raptors at that time, too.

The rest of the Central Flatirons are probably too short to squeeze 5+ pitches out of.

South Flatirions: a bunch of the Fern Canyon Flatirons will likely be closed in June. These include The Goose. Plus, the Goose is only 4 pitches. The Seal is only a 4 pitch crag as well.

The Angel's Wings have a couple longer lines into the 6-9 pitch range, but you'll have to work a bit to find difficulty into the 5.5 range. The hike will be more than an hour.

East Face Complete on the Flying Flatiron reaches 6 pitches, but it is 5.7, scramble off.

The Slab is long enough, but the 5.5-5.6 range leaves you routeless.

So, your criteria really narrows down the climbs. The 1st Flatiron would be my choice. The weather should be decent, although afternoon rain may come into play.

If you were willing to venture further afield, Eldorado Canyon SP has some options, like Icarus, 5.6 PG-13/R, ~5 pitches or Daedalus, 5.6 PG-13, ~5 pitches. These have combo climb-off/2 rope raps. Swanson's Arete, a terrific climb IMHO, is only really 4 pitches, if you're willing to do a shorter climb. Shirt Tail Peak in Eldo may be closed, plus it's really 4 pitches at most. Last Gasp, 5.6, 5 pitches on Sundance Buttress on Lumpy Ridge might be fun with a 1 hour+ walk, scramble off.

Carey S · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 80

Check out MacGreggor's slab by Estes park as well. A short but steep approach, with similar grades and length to the first flatiron. Main differences are it's granite (great view) and sub-alpine, so be sure to start early to avoid midday thunderstorms.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Actually, read the way Leo reads it, "staying in the 5.5-5.6 range" would be very limiting. I guess I read it as staying within that as an upper boundary, given that the OP mentioned the 3rd flatiron's standard route, which is 5.3.

But perhaps some clarification on the part of the OP would be in order.
Because there are fantastic link-ups below that grade, but many are pretty easy (5.2-5.4).

Jon Powell · · LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 110

Thanks for all the great information. I am completely open to climbing into the 5.8 range. I was just wanting to keep it easy because we have never climbed out west before. I was not sure how the grades compare from east coast to west coast. Ever once in a while you will run into a 5.6/5.7 east coast climb that will make you wet yourself.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Another good link-up:
The 4th flatioronette into the bottom part of the 4th flatiron, progressing onward onto Green Sneak or the East Face of Green Mountain Pinnacle and then up to the East Face of Challenger.
This is well over 1000' of climbing no harder than maybe 5.5 or so. We soloed it in scrambling shoes, so it can't be too harrowing...

You spend very little time on the ground here, so it all feels pretty continuous.

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
KyleT wrote:... Gambit 5.8 - Shirt Tail Peak ...
Closed for raptors.

mountainproject.com/v/piz-b…

Also pretty nice if you want to expand your climbing. Easy talus approach.
George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050
Tony B wrote: George? Isn't that a little exaggerated? A fit individual should reach almost any flatiron inside of an hour. Some take more, but I'd hardly suggest that "most" take an hour or more.
Some people are faster than others, and people from out of town are likely to be at the slow end of the spectrum due to unfamiliarity with the area. I'd rather err on the side of slowness, as nothing is more irritating that having the locals state "all Flatiron climbs can be approached in under 30 minutes, dude!".

Especially true now, with a foot of snow on the ground!
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Fair and true enough. I think the snow will melt by June though...
I bet you have some link-up suggestions for the guy too (?).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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