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Routes in Impact Zone
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Anchors Away S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Aqualung S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barnacle Bill S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Barnacled Anchor T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Belly of the Whale S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bends, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bird of Prey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blood, Sweat and Chalk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Castaways S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Davey Jones' Locker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Decompression Sickness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Early Retirement T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Eddie's Arête S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Edge-U-Cate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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First Aid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Handjob S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hidden Treasure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jump Start S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keelhauled S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Laugh, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mostly Harmless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Neptune (?) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Weld S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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One for One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Persephone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rock Your World S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Shipwrecked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skid Marks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Super Amazing Sea Monkeys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trident S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Van Idle Route 1 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Van Idle Route 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walk the Plank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wintermute S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Mike Farnsworth |
| Page Views: | 2,042 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Farnsworth on Dec 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Ray Weber |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY
Details
This cliff line is on private property. If there are "NO TRESPASSING" signs up, and you choose to climb there, that's a personal choice. Attempts have been made to contact the landowner by the local climbing organization, but thus far, there has been no progress.
Description
NEW line as of 12/13/12.
This one will require some trickery!
Climb a very easy vertical face past one bolt (watch for a loose rock or two at the start), then punch it out the 10' dead horizontal roof. The route is essentially a bolted boulder problem. A single tight hands jam seemed mandatory, but this isn't the crack posted on rockclimbing(dot)com. I haven't been able to find that line. I'm not sure about the grade, but 12d seems fair. Climb it! I doubt you'll be disappointed!
This one will require some trickery!
Climb a very easy vertical face past one bolt (watch for a loose rock or two at the start), then punch it out the 10' dead horizontal roof. The route is essentially a bolted boulder problem. A single tight hands jam seemed mandatory, but this isn't the crack posted on rockclimbing(dot)com. I haven't been able to find that line. I'm not sure about the grade, but 12d seems fair. Climb it! I doubt you'll be disappointed!
Location
The general location is: right of Blood, Sweat, and Chalk, left of Castaways. The climb begins uphill and left from two routes of similar character (vertical with a small roof/overlap at midheight), one of which begins on a pedestal. Scramble up a small hill from these routes to reach the base under a large roof. There are two routes here. Black Magic is the left route that climbs straight out the center of the roof using a seam and 1' right facing corner.
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