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Lightweight decent shoe options for multi-pitch climbs?

Original Post
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

One thing that always bugged me about walk-offs is that I hate carrying up two sets of approach shoes. They weigh about as much as a dozen #1s and they take up most of my climbing pack. What options are there for hard free climbing routes with walk-offs? Something where I really want to minimize weight and bulk.

Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

Sportiva has some light shoes. The Wildcats are 12 oz for a pair (size 8 I believe but definitely under a pound regardless. )

Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

And why do you need two pairs of non climbing shoes?

Brandon Gottung · · CO Western Slope · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,613

I'm a big fan of my Luna sandals for descents that aren't super technical. The Mono's are super light, traction is good and they are very secure on the feet.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
20 kN wrote:One thing that always bugged me about walk-offs is that I hate carrying up two sets of approach shoes.
Huh? Why two sets?

I've always been fine with flipflops, or just bind your approach shoes really tight together with webbing and hang them off your haul loop. You'll never notice them.
Daniel Worley · · Big South Fork, TN · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 90

Evolv Cruzers are great if your hike is not too strenuous. They have zero support but are equipped with sticky rubber and can roll up in a ball to fit in the bottom of your pack.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

Spiked track shoes? Very light. Commonly available.

Might not work well if the descent involves much other than dirt.

Jake T · · Prescott AZ · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 5

I like those mesh top ultralight basketball shoes, I get the cheapest ones I can find because they get thrashed quick either way if there's any bush whacking going on.

Marnix · · Amsterdam · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

I've carried the new Balance minimus shoes and been pretty happy with them. They're pretty light and compact and have vibram rubber so are good on slabby descents but they don't have much padding so can be tough on the knees.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

Last summer I borrowed some ultralight Merrills. Not sure what they were, but they were very light and not bulky. They didn't have any support, but it was still worth the weight. I am going to buy my own pair for this summer.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

One pair of shoes for the approach. Another for the descent.

Add a third pair if there's a lot of traversing before or after the climb.

max hux · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 75

+1 for the wildcats, I got a pair as an all purpose runner/approach shoe, they're pretty sticky (same rubber as sportiva approach shoes) but not 100% approach shoe, which is fine by me.
They've become my do everything shoe (even long hikes with heavy loads) because they're so damn comfortable...like gloves for my feet.
They don't have clip loops in the back like approach shoes but its an easy fix with some seamgrip.

Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 277

Merrell Trail Glove or other barefoot runners.

Tim Kemple · · Salt Lake · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 170

I have been using La Sportiva Vertical K. 7 oz, great traction, and enough support to carry a pack on the approach. Great shoe, but at that weight don't expect it to last too long.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

I use La Sportiva Vertical K but those Evolv Cruizers look pretty sweet.
The Cruizers have a thinner sole which might give more stability than the Verticals.
Don't expect either shoe to be very supportive on nasty approaches or descents.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

The Cruizers are nice and light and carry on the harness pretty well, but they are not very durable and do fall apart pretty quick.

sanz · · Pisgah Forest, NC · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 210

Look for a thread on combustible footwear from a couple years ago.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

In Hawaii? Reef walkers, you know that!
But really, you need to explain why 2 pair, and where. I use Tom's at Lovers Leap in Tahoe, Guides off walls in the valley, bare feet where i can...a more detailed question would help.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

you have a ton of low cost options, the approach/hike shoe biz is quite competitive, but why we are on the subject, can someone explain to me who is giving La Sportiva $250 for an approach shoe? they have named the Ganda (besides the "Texas closet factor" that is)...and not the typical dead bird response that it was on sale.....half off is $125 for an approach shoe? Has vanity reached the lowly approach shoe level? If someone is wearing a pair of Gandas, are they wearing arc teryx underwear as well?

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

He's talking about both climbers shoes, not two pairs for himself...

If you can find a pair of Patagonia Rovers, they're AWESOME for what you're talking about. I've seen too many pairs of blown out cruizers to consider them an options. Too "lifestyle" for me.

IMO, sandals are terrible if the walk off is anything but a simple trail. The first time you mash your toes in a scree field you'll curse those sandals.

OF course as soon as I like they Patagonia goes and stops making shoes...

Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135
Brandon Gottung wrote:I'm a big fan of my Luna sandals for descents that aren't super technical. The Mono's are super light, traction is good and they are very secure on the feet.
Lunas are a great piece of kit, place them together with straps facing in, tuck them inside your harness waistband and they disappear while climbing, but give you some extra support at those hanging belays.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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