Where to start on Mt. Lemmon....

We are headed to Tuscon to escape the rainy Seattle weather. Any suggestions on where to start and get a feel for the climbing style? We are looking to limit our gear to a sport rack for baggage purposes, but may bring a light rack if there is space. We climb solid 5.10s, but you know how new areas can be to figure out. Thanks for any info!

munchkinland is probably the best sport area on the mountain. raycreation is great too. if you catch a cool day (highs in tucson <70) you might check out the ruins as well.

Take your rack and go to cochise. Seriously. I usually take a rack of single cams plus hexes to fill out the bigger sizes and lots of stoppers. But...I don't climb as hard there as I do when i'm at home.

If you are going to use that trad rack, I don't think it would hurt to read through mountainproject.com/v/textb… on the subject of cam reliability in the slick rock at some of the Mt. Lemmon areas.

Cams do pull but I've never experienced that, and I have climbed a lot at Lemmon. Just test your gear and note the rock, as you would anywhere you place a camalot.

If all you bring is a sport rack, that will limit your experience. Take the rack and damn the torpedoes! The weather has been awesome, a bit on the warm side. I second Raycreation for a warm day too. Be sure to get EFR's guide Squeezing the Lemmon.

Cochise is awesome and you won't find any slippery cracks there. If you aren't going for bolted slabs, plenty of them, you can get on some big domes. Many of Cochise' big routes do take gear but not all. Check out Geir's topo guide: toofasttopos.com/purchase.html

If you don't mind strolling in the desert head to Mendoza Canyon, just a short drive west. There is an awesome amount of climbing, the Elephant's Trunk (5.7) on Elephant Dome is a fun outing on big stone.

I climbed at The Ruins for the first time recently and it was pretty dope. Low on the mountain and in the sun so it will be warm. There's a good assortment of 10's. The approach is a ball buster but it was worth it IMHO. Bonetown is pretty dope as well with long 10's but bring helmets for sure. Generally speaking Munchkinland is where most people go for 5.10 climbing but I feel there is better climbing to be had elsewhere on the mountain at the grade. That said whatever Manuel Rangel says is bound to be good advice and should be considered.

Squeezing the Lemmon can be bought online or in Tucson. Do supplement it with the Mountain project though as approaches (and mile markers) have changed sometimes considerably since it was printed.

rgold wrote:If you are going to use that trad rack, I don't think it would hurt to read through mountainproject.com/v/textb… on the subject of cam reliability in the slick rock at some of the Mt. Lemmon areas.

There's this route on mp called nang 10a really long and super good check that out little sand bagged for 10a!!! But five stars all the way super good route.
Its at windy point witch is really worth checking out.

If you can get in before the Mar 15 peregrine falcon nesting and the nice weather holds there are some moderate multi pitches on the Fortress that are all sport and excellent, representing the best (and near only) multi pitch sport worth doing on Mt Lemmon. It's also close to the Murray Wall, which has a wide variety of single pitch sport grades. In addition to those mentioned above, the Boneyard and La Milagrosa are dense 5.10 sport areas as well.

Thanks everyone for all the great beta! We climbed at Milagrosa, Prison Camp, Munchkinland, Windy Point East, the Ruins and even got in some bouldering at Gate's Pass. The climbing was awesome and we will definitely be back to hit some of the other areas we didn't get to this trip!

GregK wrote:Thanks everyone for all the great beta! We climbed at Milagrosa, Prison Camp, Munchkinland, Windy Point East, the Ruins and even got in some bouldering at Gate's Pass. The climbing was awesome and we will definitely be back to hit some of the other areas we didn't get to this trip!

GregK wrote:Thanks everyone for all the great beta! We climbed at Milagrosa, Prison Camp, Munchkinland, Windy Point East, the Ruins and even got in some bouldering at Gate's Pass. The climbing was awesome and we will definitely be back to hit some of the other areas we didn't get to this trip!

Climbed there in the late 80's early 90's. Do "Chihuahua power"-very awesome route for warm up Very fun 5.9 and "Birthday Girl" 5.10. "Desire"-5.10 is one of the most beautiful lines I have ever seen...some real sphincter pucker factor as well. Really miss that place. Have fun.
K.C. Lewis