Flatiron question.

My friend and I are planning a trip to Boulder to climb the Flatirons. I have several questions I was hoping to get some answers to. First we are planning on coming out mid June. What can we expect from the weather? I have been told the 3rd is the best is this true? Big crowds? My partner and I are both comfortable climbing 5.7 trad multi pitch in the southeast. Being our first trip to Colorado we would like to stay in the 5.5-5.6 range just so we do not end up in unfamiliar territory that far from home. We prefer routes at least 5-6 pitches or more. Open to suggestions on routes. My biggest concern is the decent. Is it better to rapp off the back or back down the route? Can you walk off most routes? Are there any routes with fixed gear or anchors? Thanks for the help!

The 3rd is closed from 2/1 to 8/1 due to cliff chickens. There are many other options. Rap or walk-off is available on pretty much every route, but depends on which routes you do.
The weather should be fantastic.
You can buy a book at fixedpin.com or at a retailer to find what routes you want to do. There are many more flatirons than the #1,2,3,4,5 variety - they stretch for several miles. Many of them run 5+ pitches, but many have falcon closures.
There will be not less than a dozen routes on the first flatiron alone in your range of length/grade to do, by way of example.
There are also link-ups such as The Regency to the Royal Arch and such that are < 6 pitches each, but sum up to at least that.

If you're coming in June the 3rd is out of the question. It will be closed for raptor nesting. Getting busted for climbing during the closure will land you a hefty fine, and you will get caught. The rangers are on point with keeping people off. Stick to the first or second. Plenty of routes on both. Pro is usually far a few between on the easy ground but if your confident around 5.6-7 you'll be fine. Route finding is usually the most interesting but manageable.

The weather is great in june. The east face direct on the 1st is awesome. Plan on a full day for this with mid-summer traffic. As others have said, the 3rd is closed but there are many more flatirons. The maiden is a good one.
In your grade range i highly recommend doing swanson arete (5.5) and rewritten (5.6) in eldo while you are here. Both of these are the best in their grades in the boulder area imho. Enjoy.

jcm537 wrote: The weather is great in june. The east face direct on the 1st is awesome. Plan on a full day for this with mid-summer traffic. As others have said, the 3rd is closed but there are many more flatirons. The maiden is a good one. In your grade range i highly recommend doing swanson arete (5.5) and rewritten (5.6) in eldo while you are here. Both of these are the best in their grades in the boulder area imho. Enjoy.

Direct Route on the First Flatiron is probably the way to go for you guys to get in the grade of climbing that you want and a good day on the wall. It is run out, but fairly casual. It was mentioned earlier that route finding can be interesting and I agree if it is your first time up there. Just follow the direction of another team or feel free to ask everyone who is free soloing next to you. You will see plenty of climbers.

The Spy followed by the North Ridge of the 1st would be fun too.

Jon climbing in NC will prepare you for the Flatirons. The rock is different but runouts can be similar. Cedar, the Nose @ LG area, there are 5.7 routes on the R side of Laurel Knob that are 500+ ft that are awesome adventure w 2+ hr approach

+1 for the maiden. Great climb!

i've found that SE grades are a bit stiffer than Colorado (although i've never been to boulder) so if you find a route that you want to do that is 5.7 or 5.8 you'll probably be fine.

Eli don't underestimate Eldo or Lumpy

Many descents off Flatirons are rappels. Check to be sure they're single-rope, though many are.

Some are laughably easy scramble/walk/step-down affairs.

The Maiden is a fun one as long as you like exposure. Lots of exposure. The rappels are mandatory two-rope affairs.

The Matron is fun, too, and somewhat easier than the Maiden. Both these 'ladies' feature, ah, intriguing approaches. Matter of fact, so do a number of the Flatirons except for the First and Third.

Rewritten 5.6? Don't think so. 5.7, even from good ol' Jim 'Sandbag' Erickson.

Re Eldo: some rappel descents that occasionally follow the route, but not often. Lots of long-ish, involved downclimbs via the East Slabs of the Redgarden Wall. Not a place you wanna be when it's wet or getting that way.

flynn wrote: The Maiden is a fun one as long as you like exposure. Lots of exposure. The rappels are mandatory two-rope affairs.

The second offers a nice 5.2, or whatever you want to call it, scrambling adventure. I wouldn't go out of your way to do it. But if you wanted to do more things outside and you're in the area, its a nice hike. Also wouldn't be a bad spot if you wanted to practice some simul climbing.

Apart from that, the direct route on the 1st is good and the standard first flatiron climb. Expect longish lines.

Eliot Augusto wrote:But the 3rd is a wednesday, so who knows if it will be busy at all.

Weather in June should be perfect! Aside from the First & Third Flatirons, you are unlikely to run into other climbers in the Flatirons (and as others have noted the Third is closed in June). In most cases you can expect an hour approach or more. On most routes, there are no fixed anchors, except for an eye bolt on the summit for the rap off the back.

For route recommendations, see above replies, or go to the Flatirons page and look under "The Classics".

Marc801 wrote: Huh?

The 1st and 3rd are most definitely kick ass pieces of rock and shouldn't be missed. But there are some gems tucked away further south as well. Seal Rock, the Goose, the Fatiron, the Slab, the Flying Flatiron, Devil's Thumb... endless amounts of beautiful climbing. The Maiden might be my favorite though. It's worth it just for the rap.