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Beginner climber on Central Gully - Mount washington NH

Original Post
Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180

Hello Folks, I'm a relatively inexperienced climber (mainly a winter hiker). I'm VERY interested in climbing Central or Pinnacle Gully up Huntingtons Ravine on Mt. Washington. From what I gather Central Gully is a relatively easy, Almost hiking experience. Pinnacle is probably above my skillset.

what I'd like to know is how most people climb Central Gully? Do you use ropes or solo? It seems like with enough snow cover the rope is a little over kill. Technical tools or apline ax?

I'm just trying to learn what gear is essential as I don't currently own a full ice rack.

Also, if anyone would like to volunteer to bring me I wouldn't say no :-D

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Yer Gonna

Die...

seriously, central is mostly a snow/ Neve hike with possibly 10 to 20ft of grade 1+ ice. It would be best climbed with real mountain boots and real crampons. An experienced climber could do it easily with one mountainering ax. You should bring two axes. A pair of cassin all mountains would be perfect as they will allow you to progress to much harder climbs in the future. Know how to self arrest. practice it in your back yard if you can find a steep enough snowbank. Find a steep chunk of roadcut ice and solo / boulder on it. Don't fall. learn how to keep your shit together climbing 10 to 20 ft of steep ice unroped. don't fall. practice downclimbing. don't fall. I can't imagine ropeing up for central but I know people do it. If you fall out of central you will get seriously fucked up or killed. Don't fall. on't get flushed in an avalance.

Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180
Nick Goldsmith wrote:Yer Gonna Die... seriously, central is mostly a snow/ Neve hike with possibly 10 to 20ft of grade 1+ ice. It would be best climbed with real mountain boots and real crampons. An experienced climber could do it easily with one mountainering ax. You should bring two axes. A pair of cassin all mountains would be perfect as they will allow you to progress to much harder climbs in the future. Know how to self arrest. practice it in your back yard if you can find a steep enough snowbank. Find a steep chunk of roadcut ice and solo / boulder on it. Don't fall. learn how to keep your shit together climbing 10 to 20 ft of steep ice unroped. don't fall. practice downclimbing. don't fall. I can't imagine ropeing up for central but I know people do it. If you fall out of central you will get seriously fucked up or killed. Don't fall. on't get flushed in an avalance.
Haha thanks for the tips... Dont fall.

I should mention I own the proper equipment... Alpine Ax, Ice tools, mountaineering boots, step in crampons (BD Cyborgs). I just dont own screws, ropes, etc... I know self arrest and self belay for hiking above treeline. I've done some relatively steep "hikes" like Mt. Whiteface ledges in the winter.

Seems like south gully might be a better bet for me.
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

I think hiring a guide would be a really worthwhile idea. There are a ton of excellent guides up that way and you could learn a lot from them in just a day or two.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

south and central are almost Identicle steepness except Central has a very short low angle ice step that has been skied many times. Obviously conditions are everything. If you fall in South you can get seriously fucked up or killed. I participated in a rescue where the victim fell from the start of central. he tripped while gearing up on what we call the fan. The fan is the approach to all the climbs in Hunnington. its that big bowl below the climbs. tripped on his own poons, slid 200ft into a pile of rocks and was seriously Fcked up. Split his old style fiberglass Joe brown helmet in two. broke a bunch of ribs and punctured a lung. he forgot the one rule. Don't fall.
If you get out and do your roadside steep ice bouldering, you are a good hiker with crampons on and you have a good head for what you can and can not do, central is a winter hike. the biggest danger is avalanch and getting lost/cliffed decending.

Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180
Nick Goldsmith wrote:south and central are almost Identicle steepness except Central has a very short low angle ice step that has been skied many times. Obviously conditions are everything. If you fall in South you can get seriously fucked up or killed. I participated in a rescue where the victim fell from the start of central. he tripped while gearing up on what we call the fan. The fan is the approach to all the climbs in Hunnington. its that big bowl below the climbs. tripped on his own poons, slid 200ft into a pile of rocks and was seriously Fcked up. Split his old style fiberglass Joe brown helmet in two. broke a bunch of ribs and punctured a lung. he forgot the one rule. Don't fall. If you get out and do your roadside steep ice bouldering, you are a good hiker with crampons on and you have a good head for what you can and can not do, central is a winter hike. the biggest danger is avalanch and getting lost/cliffed decending.
I appreciate the advice. I'd probably descend lions head as I know that route relatively well.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Lions head may be hard to find in bad weather. best bet is to go back down south or central if its really hairy up there. it is tricky to know from above where south is. if you go down Odels by accident it is possible to traverse to south on a small rock ledge maybe 100ft? above the ice. obviously trying any of the gully Decents without prior knowledge of them is tricky, dangerous and not recomended without more experience. picking a day with good weather and Low avy danger, going up south or central and accoss the alpine gardens to Lionshead would be a great adventure.
PS know your limits on the mountain and don't be afraid to bail if you feel that is the smart thing to do.

and

yer

Gonna

Die

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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