Alpine Rock First Ascent Potential in the US

I'm interested in areas with lots of potential for alpine rock first ascents in the US. These could include formations that already have the most obvious routes climbed but have a good deal of potential for new lines. I have very little background in the area am just wondering from an adventuring background-where is there potential to scout new lines deep in the backcountry that aren't entirely choss/contrived?

Obviously local climbers and route developers are the best source for specific areas, but I'm curious if there is consensus in the MP community on general areas with lots of potential. Cheers, appreciate any input.

Go to the Wind River or Sawtooth ranges. Bring a helmet, pitons, and plenty of bail gear. Go do FAs until your fingers bleed.

Jon H wrote:Go to the Wind River or Sawtooth ranges. Bring a helmet, pitons, and plenty of bail gear. Go do FAs until your fingers bleed.

+1

I would suggest Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Washington, and California. Alaska too, and parts of Canada.

Andrew Gram wrote:I would suggest Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Washington, and California. Alaska too, and parts of Canada.

Rad.

Definitely some potential in those places.

OP asks about route potential in the US.. Admin answers with

Andrew Gram wrote:Parts of Canada.

and dam near every state with a mountain over 6,000 ft

Last year's AAJ had a pretty cool piece on FA potential right out of Whitney portal, it's close to LA, full of rock and was an interesting article, I'd start there. Anywhere you look, have the time and put in the effort.

Mountains are generally pretty big objects :). Depending on how hard you can climb, you might find a "route" every 50' all the way around the thing. Joking but serious. In reality you can probably find lots of doable routes on any peak that requires several hours of hiking to access.

Jon H wrote:Go to the Wind River or Sawtooth ranges. Bring a helmet, pitons, and plenty of bail gear. Go do FAs until your fingers bleed.

Out of luck! I'm pretty sure Fred Becky got there first.

Andrew Gram wrote:I would suggest Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Washington, and California. Alaska too, and parts of Canada.

Fred was there too!

Thanks for the replies everyone. I know it was super open ended, I guess I hold a common thought that so much must already be developed, especially great lines. I was expecting a comment regarding almost all states with alpineish climbs, but really appreciate ideas like what ErifF said and the AAJ suggesting stuff out of the portal. Maybe I should rephrase and ask if people remember recent resources that are helpful for recommending areas with potential for alpine rock FAs? Again, appreciate the comments!

Matt Liedecker's guidebook to the Sawtooths has a bunch of potential rock routes marked in it.

A good resource for finding places with alpine new route potential are finding any places that have any alpine rock routes at all. Aside from a very few heavily traveled places like the Diamond on Longs Peak or the Grand Teton, most places will have routes waiting to be done for people willing to explore and put in some work.

If you live in Los Angeles you are only 4 hours from thousands of unclimbed routes. The Sierra Nevada still has tons of potential if you are willing to walk. Sure the obvious lines have been tapped but heck even the Whitney area is seeing a boom in new route activity right now.

Kipp.fo.....

I suggest you get out and look for yourself. I know of no GB that points out "good potential".... sorry.

For starters... the Sierra... two hrs hiking will get you away from the popular developed spots. Up in Sequoia, the Santa Cruz domes are the latest "hot spots", 2.5 hours up hill gets you to the domes... right now there about 10 climbs. If this was close to a road there would be about 300- seriously.

Another place with a lifetime of climbing is in Kings canyon... specifically- the Monarch Divide, the east west trending ridge that separates the south fork of the Kings River from the Middle Fork. Look up the Gorge of Despair, on MP... there are several more canyons just like the GOD that descend into the Middle Fork. I know nobody who has even hiked into those canyons... and I know several folks who go looking for FA's.

no need to travel to other states, this is all in our backyard... although the other states have a wealth of untapped climbing also.

I find that when you start doing FA's time becomes precious, best to spend it not traveling.

Cheers

Does it need to be a true FA? Just get a topo of an area, head to the steep spots, and climb it. If someone else already did it, oh well you probably still had fun with the adventure. If no one else has, great you got a FA. Even if every possible line ever has been climbed you can still do adventure climbing by not looking for the beta. Sure it won't be a FA, but who really cares?

No offense, but that's like asking Fred Beckey to send you a copy of his Little Black Book ... you might have to do your own HW here...

Scotty Nelson wrote:No offense, but that's like asking Fred Beckey to send you a copy of his Little Black Book ... you might have to do your own HW here...

+1, ha yeah, I'll give out my stash...

I will PM you the GPS coordinates for a sick alpine wall in Colorado, your going to need lots of bolts and a power drill.