Yosemite Recommendations

Canyon,

I used to live and work in the Valley and know the crowds all too well.

If you're looking for a nice cruiser day just get up early (before the crowds) and do the Nutcracker. Its a fantastic climb that is well worth beating the crowds for. Its also worth waiting for if someone gets to the first pitch before you. The Manure Pile Buttress has a lot of other really good moderate classic climbs to do if you finish with enough time to do more.

Couple other really good ones would be Central Pillar of Frenzy, Super Slide, or anything at the Five Open Books wall.

Do Moratorium...I know it's 11A, but with short cruxes and great pro..Brilliant climbing.
it might get some spray in april..in that case i would suggest New Dimensions..again 11A, but way classic and another short crux

Either of these routes are well worth even a point or 2 of aid,,leading or seconding IMO

Get up really early and be first in line. That would be the best way to beat the crowds.
My votes would be for the Central Pillar of Frenzy (shady) or Serenity to Sons of Yesterday (sunny).

Another relatively obscure route is Absolutely Free, Center.

Solid but safe 5.9.

mountainproject.com/v/absol…

Upside: Assuredly no crowds, terrific, safe, memorable, climbing.

Downside is complex (but not super long) approach, and long, loose (but safe) descent.

If you want to go cragging, Ap. New Diversions cliff gets less traffic than Yosemite's more iconic crags. It has several excellent routes in the 5.9-5.10b range, and a 5.11 you can hang a toprope on. Check out Wasp (5.9+) and Strangers in the Night (10b), those two never get done but are high quality.

5. Camp 4 Wall also has a bunch of splitter routes and doesn't see a ton of crowds. Mostly 5.9 to 5.10c cracks in the burly sizes, so bring several bigger cams to make the most of the day. Lancelot, Henley Quits, Secret Storm, Edge of Night, Chopper, all three Doggie climbs, lots of fun stuff. Afternoon shade, and only a 5-10 min walk from Camp 4.

The Surprise is fun. Can't remember how well-protected the traverse on the standard variation is, though.

The Werner's Ant Tree start was fun to me, too. I felt ok on the crux, but my follower thought it was a bit hard.

Though you could link up Selaginella with a lower route, you could also just hike up to it. Probably fewer people on the route than a lot of other classics.

Bryan G wrote:5. Camp 4 Wall also has a bunch of splitter routes and doesn't see a ton of crowds. Mostly 5.9 to 5.10c cracks in the burly sizes, so bring several bigger cams to make the most of the day. Lancelot, Henley Quits, Secret Storm, Edge of Night, Chopper, all three Doggie climbs, lots of fun stuff. Afternoon shade, and only a 5-10 min walk from Camp 4.

Just get up early, on my trip I got on all of the classic lines and was never behind another party the whole trip. Getting up early isn't for everyone, but it sure beats being behind a slow party.

Thank you all for the help! I have a list of possible climbs now! My only conclusion so far is that I am going to have to plan multiple trips down there! I will write up a post trip climbing report when we get home. Thanks again for the suggestions and help. It should be a good first taste of what the valley offers!
Canyon