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Routes in Lost John
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Scrubby's Crossing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Turning Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whole Slot of Trouble T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Don Spittler, David Babich, 1976 FFA: Eric Barrett, George Conner, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,629 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Prentice on Jun 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
Stemming, finger cracks, stemming, laybacks, stemming, and jams. All thoughtful, mostly on gorgeous granite with golden glacial polish. Good stances below crux moves, which come more or less every roof, depending on your stylistic strengths.
Protection
Pro to 3.5", doubles of 0.5-2".
There is now a 2 bolt anchor with chains at the top of this route. I was able to rap easily with a 70 m rope, but not sure if a 60 m would make it.
Also, it looks like whoever put the chains up tried to grind down the welds on the links a bit, which left some very sharp burrs on the inside of the links. If you don't notice this and just haphazardly thread your rope through, you could easily shred your sheath. Be careful, or maybe bring a file.
There is now a 2 bolt anchor with chains at the top of this route. I was able to rap easily with a 70 m rope, but not sure if a 60 m would make it.
Also, it looks like whoever put the chains up tried to grind down the welds on the links a bit, which left some very sharp burrs on the inside of the links. If you don't notice this and just haphazardly thread your rope through, you could easily shred your sheath. Be careful, or maybe bring a file.
Photos
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