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Rope age

Original Post
green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

How long do ropes last when they sit (properly stored) unused for a long time?

I took a break from climbing and now I'm getting my gear ready for the spring, but my rope has sat for 2-3 years. If it was in good condition the last time I used it, and it has been properly stored, is it still safe?

I know there are mandatory rules for how long a rope lasts when you use it consecutively, but what about when it gets stored?

Thanks

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Ropes don't break, ever, on the first fall*, even 30 year old ropes. Solid research on this is well known by groups like the UIAA (Pit Schubert, UIAA safety committee, for example)

If it passes digital inspection: no soft spots; and visual inspection: no core shots, it's fine. (If you stored it badly and it was ever exposed to an acid, though, all bets are off.)

That said, yer gonna die, and there will be howls from the hyper conservatives that this rope is so dangerous that it will make your car explode if you even touch it.

*They do cut frightenly easily, though.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30
bluewaterropes.com/faqs/

Blue water says their suggestion is 5 years for a rope seeing use. you should be ok, but a fresh cord is good for peace of mind (better'n mostly bullshit from internet nobodies)
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Here's some bullshit from Internet nobody, Pit Schubert (Also a reknowned safety researcher with the UIAA, engineer, and climber):

theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil…

Don't replace your rope due to age. Replace it because it becomes a sad-sack rope due to *use.* If your rope sat in a closet for 10 years unused after you bought it, it is completely fine to climb on.

The idea that you need to retire a rope solely due to age is a persistent myth in the climbing community, but not much more than that.

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 13,970

What do you think Locker?

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I've climbed with Locker many times, Adam (EDIT: perhaps something I shouldn't admit...), and I'm pretty sure all of his ropes were hemp, and manufactured in the 19th century.

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

My ropes are always destroyed long before I have to worry about their age. Having said that I think your rope is toast, you can send it to me, so it can be properly recycled. Pm me for my address.

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Also interested in this since so many of the online shops with rope sales seem to be clearing them out just prior to the end of their shelf-life. I've received ropes manufactured in 2010 and 2011 the last 3 times I've ordered online.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Ropes age minimally in storage, and more-so through use. Age is not a concern for breakage -- as a general rule ropes don't break. (They get cut or severed, they don't break.) They do lose elasticity.

I tend to use new, elastic, ropes for gear leads and multi-pitch climbs. As the rope gets older, I retire it from that to sport leads, then to gym leading and/or top-roping. From there it gets retired to access rope, for instance something to hang on while cleaning or bolting a climb. And, finally, from there to either a permanent access installation, chopped up for clipping practice, or for some other non-climbing use.

In your case -- a rope you climbed on for a while, then stored for a few years. I might be inclined to not lead a delicate gear climb on it, but would otherwise be fine with using it.

green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the responses.

I would be using the rope for top roping with my girlfriend. I have a new 70m for trad climbing. I feel a lot more comfortable using the rope now. I will also double check for wear/damage to the sheath

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Beal says the maximum age for a rope is 15 years. They are quite possibly the largest climbing rope manufacturer out there too.

bealplanet.com/sport/anglai…

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
20 kN wrote:Beal says the maximum age for a rope is 15 years. They are quite possibly the largest climbing rope manufacturer out there too. bealplanet.com/sport/anglai…
If I'm not mistaken, Beal's advice applies to the full range of intended rope use i.e. catching lead falls. Toprope use is so much less stressful on a rope. (Disclaimer - I TR on 20 year old ropes)
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Honestly, if it's made of nylon, it was made for lead climbing, and it has no core shots, you can probably TR on it. Notice that age is not a part of that list.

But it's your life, yada yada, so buy a new rope every month.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Last week i met a climber who had a 20 year old rope that he stored away ...

It was in better condition than my 1 year old rope that ive used daily

;)

Likeasummerthursday · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 90
teece303 wrote:Here's some bullshit from Internet nobody, Pit Schubert (Also a reknowned safety researcher with the UIAA, engineer, and climber): theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil… Don't replace your rope due to age. Replace it because it becomes a sad-sack rope due to *use.* If your rope sat in a closet for 10 years unused after you bought it, it is completely fine to climb on. The idea that you need to retire a rope solely due to age is a persistent myth in the climbing community, but not much more than that.
Wow, great article!

He also dismisses, almost entirely, the concept of aging of ropes by UV exposure. Did anybody else catch that? The conclusion seems to me that it is fine to store a rope in a cool, sunny place?
I'm thinking tubular webbing might be a different story, specifically as it lacks a sheath. Any thoughts?
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

186 days.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

Just inspecting it by hand should put your mind at ease. Consistency throughout the line? No bulges? Nothing softer than the rest? No crispy sounds in the imperfections? It's gooooood! I've had the same rope for 4 years. Stored it in a non-climate controlled rental unit while deployed in Afghanistan. Still takin' whippers on it! I just found out about x-raying rope. That's a good trick!

Danbo1957 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

If you have any question of the viability of a rope for any reason: retire it. Do not rely on any preconceived notions that you or others may have about what might be, could be, or will be concerning equipment. Just do not use any questionable piece of equipment, your life and your partner's life depend it.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

There we go, Danbo! I'm surprised we made it this far without hearing from the Chicken Little Brigade! (I kid. But seriously, read the PDF linked above,and the OP's situation. His rope is fine.)

There's conservative and then there's just plain silly.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Ill post up more stuff from the DAV and the journal of mountain risk management when i get back home from the crag latter this week

But the short of it is ... If it looks good, feels good and hasnt been exposed to chemicals ... Its safe enough for TR purposes

;)

Moritz B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 185

A rope has a lifespan of ten years if it hasn't been used.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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