Southeastern Offwidth

I'm looking for a list of offwidth climbs in the southeast. I live in Nashville, and climb at the Tennessee Wall regularly. I know the Red River Gorge has Muscle Beach which is packed full of offwidth and I intend on getting out there soon. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!

P.S. I think it would be super awesome if mountain project had "type of climb" or "hold type" function in their search engine...just a suggestion(;

Lots of good wide in KY. (TN also for that matter) Muscle Beach is good, must do wide routes there would be: Close Encounters With A Wench, Rockrash and Muscle Shoals. (there are others at muscle as well)

Also in the RRG: Not Worth It (which is totally worth it and possibly sandbagged), What's Left of the Beeneling, Inhibitor (short section of wide), Perforator, Yuk (takes really big gear), Check Your Drip, Ronnies Crack (aka raw knees crack), Spontaneous Lactation, Wide Pride, Drunked Up, Beene Material, Crescenta (fun to climb wide at the lode), Bring out the Gent, Shit My Pants and Dance, Days Work, Dicey at Best, Country Lovin (ultra classic!)Hidden Dragon, Better Red Than Dead, Dreamthiever, Escape Hatch, The Kentucky Wristwatch, Smoke and Mirrors, Lug Nuts... the list goes on

Now, before we conclude, let us not forget to mention the immaculate wide roof boulder problem, When Doves Cry. This one would be a real crowd pleaser if there were to ever be a crowd up there, which is unlikely. (just means there's more for us!) Either way, this one comes highly recommended.

Holler if you have any questions, I'm always happy to help people suffer (and possibly vomit). Enjoy!

There are a few good wide cracks at the NRG. Stuck in Another Dimension and Newfangled Dangle both have crux sections that are old school flared wide sections. Smooth Operator has some cool wide sections and is one of the best 5.9 cracks at the NRG. For harder stuff, there's Let's Get Physical, a cool 12a at Bridge Buttress, and Souvenir, a v6/12+ 35 foot roof crack boulder problem.

https://vimeo.com/78285707

vimeo.com/49983990

Thank you all so much for the suggestions! I've looked some of these up and they look awesome! I stared at Yuk for like 20 minutes a while I was at Long wall a while back but didn't have the guts (insanity?) to get on it. Batguano, where are there offwidths in TN (or AL, or GA for that matter)? I've climbed some sections that are offwidthy (like Blind Date at T-wall), but not a lot of committed true miserable grunting offwidth. Thanks again ya'll, and thanks Pnelson for the videos...they are super rad!

Isara wants to be committed to true miserable grunting offwidth... bravo friend, well put. I like the way you think.

Yuk is a good one, it's a good one to have something larger than a #6 on. a couple green bros, maybe a blue bro, VG#9 etc. Been a while, details are fuzzy.

I don't make it down to the chatt area that often, so I don't have a lot of great info there. At T-wall, Lab Rats is a great route, a gruntsome type slot to hands and fists... what's not to love? Octopod Palace is another climb of the same ilk. Somewhere near Octopod (maybe even further right?) is a good 5.9, can't remember the name of it, think it is a B. Faber route. Also, there is Fists of Fury. I'm certain there is more around there, just not too familiar with them.

Human Chew Toy is at LRC

Couple in the Obed... Big Fatty, I believe that one is on little clear. Fat Man's BBQ is a route in the lily boulders somewhere. Hillbilly Timepiece is also down there.

Handful of them in the BSF too. Worth mentioning in particular is this one in the Crack House area near the O&W wall. Approach the boxcar roof, then head left when you get to the wall, can't miss it. I think it's listed in the new Dixie Cragger, maybe it says it hasn't been done, but I did it in '06 after stumbling upon it. It's a quality route, 360 degree invert chimney pivot/cartwheel/reverse torpedo style sequence through a roof that leads to knee locks then fists. Short pitch, ends at a ledge with a bolted anchor. It's a must do if you like inverts.

more info here: mountainproject.com/v/south…

I bet the route Nate is talking about at the Crack House is the same one.

Doctor Wells also has some good suggestions for the chatt area.

as far as bouldering is concerned:

Aunt Fannie's Amazing Asscrack is a short, sweet OW problem at Rocktown; sweet inverted move!

Beer Ticket (aka Horse Penis in the old PDF guide) is a John Sherman OW at Horse Pens.

Couple of offies at LRC like Body Glove and whatever the OW/chimney next to Fame is.

Anyone know where Souvenir is located? Looks great...

Isara, I sent you a PM if you want to hit some wide sometime. I'd like to get up to Obed and hit the Fat Boy BBQ when the snow melts...

1.2M wrote:Anyone know where Souvenir is located? Looks great...

Thx pnelson

Kennedy space port at rumbling bald

Isara, you so crazy

Here's my tentative Southeast offwidth circuit I want to try and knock out: 

Yuk -RRG (5.9) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Next Day Air -RRG (5.11-) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Inhibitor -RRG (5.11a) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Better Red than Dead -RRG (5.12c) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Wide Pride -RRG (5.10c) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Kaiju -RRG (5.11-) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Burden of Dreams -RRG (5.11c) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Crouching Tiger -RRG (5.12-) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Hidden Dragon -RRG (5.12c) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Human Chew Toy -Stone Fort (5.11d+) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Unnamed Invert Boulder -Stone Fort (V4 ish?)
Celestial Mechanics -T Wall (5.12c) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Fists of Fury -T Wall (5.12c) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Lost Arrow Chimney -Sunset (5.11, see Chatt Trad)
Fat Man's BBQ - Obed (5.12+) See guidebook
Minimum Wage - Obed (5.9+) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Souvenir - NRG (V6) mountainproject.com/route/1…
Let's get physical -NRG (12a) mountainproject.com/photo/1…
Kennedy Spaceport - Rumbling Bald (5.11) - mountainproject.com/route/1…
Unnamed - Sand Rock (V5) - mountainproject.com/route/1…
Offwidth Exam - Jackson Falls (5.12-)

Keeping a tab on this because I am also interested in wide climbing in the Red and the New

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116228032/similax-crack

Derek Gloudemans wrote: Offwidth Exam - Jackson Falls (5.12-)

Most of the trad lines at Jackson Falls are offwidths, like https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108218225/feeding-the-rat and https://www.mountainproject.com/route/113653333/you-cant-take-the-sky-from-me 

Also very interested in this collection of wide cracks. I’m headed to the RRG this weekend and wanted to look at as many as possible… but about half the ones on this list batguano posted aren’t on MP or in the guidebook. Anyone have info on these?

Check Your Drip

Ronnie’s Crack

Spontaneous Lactation

Days Work

Escape Hatch

Kentucky Wristwatch

Smoke and Mirrors

Lug Nuts

The rest of the list is more than we’ll be able to get to in this trip anyways, but just wanted to see what these other ones had to offer as well. 

I only climbed Day's Work once about 26+ years ago, so it's not fresh in my mind. I think that the largest piece I placed was a 4.5 Camalot (the burgundy one). The climb felt 9-9+. I enjoyed it. Let us know what you think.

I haven't climbed the others.