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grigri, frozen ropes, good combo?

Original Post
frodo too · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 35

Asking ice buffs out there. Is it kosher to systematically belay on gri while ice climbing in changing temps? What about tr solo? Or ushba is pretty much the only way to go for tr solo ice?

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

No if rope frozen. Yes if rope not frozen

Brian Arms · · Minnesota · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 21

I use a grigri. Never trouble either way, besides the pain of working a frozen rope. Sometimes a rope gets iced up, not something you can really avoid. But I do try to keep the rope off wet ice as much as possible, not so much because I think it will affect the grigri but rather iced ropes are a pain to deal with...

grubbers · · West Shore · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Get a Petzl Micro Traxion or Basic if you are looking to solo TR some ice. Even with a toothed device, expect it to not feed all that well once your rope starts to ice up. I can usually only climb for about 1.5-2 hours before my rope starts to ice up to the point where the Micro Traxion doesn't feed well and there have even been times when it has felt like it might not catch immediately in the event of a fall due to the ice build up.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

This weekend, I was on lead and my belayer was using a grigri. It was very cold and snowing and the rope had several frozen sections. And, of course, a length of frozen rope got caught as my belayer was trying to feed out slack so I could clip a draw.

This happens with ATCs too. But it's a lot easier though to fix with an ATC.

It's just a matter of being prepared - both on lead, and while belaying. I was solid on my tools and crampons (as you should be) and my belayer knew what he was doing (as he should) and, after a few seconds, passed the length of frozen rope through the device.

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

because the icing is unpredictable, I TR solo with two different devices on two different ropes. I use a micro traxion on one strand and a microcender on the other strand. It works fine.

Regarding GriGri, I've done TR training sessions with my friend using a GriGri, and it worked ok not great. So I keep with the ATC for ice, even though I love GriGris for rock.

Mike Barter · · Banff, AB · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 15

It would be a great way to get away with murder. Say your best climbing buddy was doing your GF and you wanted to kill him and get away with it. This might work. Claim ignorance then take her ice climbing. Course two deaths same way, same day might look bad.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Mike Barter wrote:It would be a great way to get away with murder. Say your best climbing buddy was doing your GF and you wanted to kill him and get away with it. This might work. Claim ignorance then take her ice climbing. Course two deaths same way, same day might look bad.

Take them both climbing. You lead then bring them up. Use doubles and two GriGris. This ones free.. The next one will cost Ya.
banski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 10
Mike Barter wrote:It would be a great way to get away with murder. Say your best climbing buddy was doing your GF and you wanted to kill him and get away with it. This might work. Claim ignorance then take her ice climbing. Course two deaths same way, same day might look bad.
Sick...In a bad way. You will never be able to live with yourself after committing such a hideous act. Ditch them both and move on with your life for bigger and better things. There will be more friends and girls.
Alex Kowalcyk · · Idaho · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 65

How does a gri-gri have any place in ice climbing? Those things are for aid-climbing or for belaying sportos that are hang-dogging all over the place in order to save the pump of the belayer. Much too heavy to be of use for anything else.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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