Rope age
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How long do ropes last when they sit (properly stored) unused for a long time? |
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Ropes don't break, ever, on the first fall*, even 30 year old ropes. Solid research on this is well known by groups like the UIAA (Pit Schubert, UIAA safety committee, for example) |
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bluewaterropes.com/faqs/
Blue water says their suggestion is 5 years for a rope seeing use. you should be ok, but a fresh cord is good for peace of mind (better'n mostly bullshit from internet nobodies) |
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Here's some bullshit from Internet nobody, Pit Schubert (Also a reknowned safety researcher with the UIAA, engineer, and climber): |
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What do you think Locker? |
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I've climbed with Locker many times, Adam (EDIT: perhaps something I shouldn't admit...), and I'm pretty sure all of his ropes were hemp, and manufactured in the 19th century. |
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My ropes are always destroyed long before I have to worry about their age. Having said that I think your rope is toast, you can send it to me, so it can be properly recycled. Pm me for my address. |
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Also interested in this since so many of the online shops with rope sales seem to be clearing them out just prior to the end of their shelf-life. I've received ropes manufactured in 2010 and 2011 the last 3 times I've ordered online. |
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Ropes age minimally in storage, and more-so through use. Age is not a concern for breakage -- as a general rule ropes don't break. (They get cut or severed, they don't break.) They do lose elasticity. |
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Thanks for all the responses. |
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Beal says the maximum age for a rope is 15 years. They are quite possibly the largest climbing rope manufacturer out there too. |
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20 kN wrote:Beal says the maximum age for a rope is 15 years. They are quite possibly the largest climbing rope manufacturer out there too. bealplanet.com/sport/anglai…If I'm not mistaken, Beal's advice applies to the full range of intended rope use i.e. catching lead falls. Toprope use is so much less stressful on a rope. (Disclaimer - I TR on 20 year old ropes) |
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Honestly, if it's made of nylon, it was made for lead climbing, and it has no core shots, you can probably TR on it. Notice that age is not a part of that list. |
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Last week i met a climber who had a 20 year old rope that he stored away ... |
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teece303 wrote:Here's some bullshit from Internet nobody, Pit Schubert (Also a reknowned safety researcher with the UIAA, engineer, and climber): theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil… Don't replace your rope due to age. Replace it because it becomes a sad-sack rope due to *use.* If your rope sat in a closet for 10 years unused after you bought it, it is completely fine to climb on. The idea that you need to retire a rope solely due to age is a persistent myth in the climbing community, but not much more than that.Wow, great article! He also dismisses, almost entirely, the concept of aging of ropes by UV exposure. Did anybody else catch that? The conclusion seems to me that it is fine to store a rope in a cool, sunny place? I'm thinking tubular webbing might be a different story, specifically as it lacks a sheath. Any thoughts? |
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186 days. |
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Just inspecting it by hand should put your mind at ease. Consistency throughout the line? No bulges? Nothing softer than the rest? No crispy sounds in the imperfections? It's gooooood! I've had the same rope for 4 years. Stored it in a non-climate controlled rental unit while deployed in Afghanistan. Still takin' whippers on it! I just found out about x-raying rope. That's a good trick! |
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If you have any question of the viability of a rope for any reason: retire it. Do not rely on any preconceived notions that you or others may have about what might be, could be, or will be concerning equipment. Just do not use any questionable piece of equipment, your life and your partner's life depend it. |
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There we go, Danbo! I'm surprised we made it this far without hearing from the Chicken Little Brigade! (I kid. But seriously, read the PDF linked above,and the OP's situation. His rope is fine.) |
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Ill post up more stuff from the DAV and the journal of mountain risk management when i get back home from the crag latter this week |
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A rope has a lifespan of ten years if it hasn't been used. |