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Anyone whipped in a chimney before?

Original Post
Zak Munro · · VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME, SLC · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 345

The only way you can really fall in a chimney is to go limp right? I can think back to when I did Independence Chimney on Independence Monument looking down 25ft to my last piece that was a drilled angle. Though easy, since the chimney goes from almost an off width to stemming a fall would have most likely resulted in me lodged in the chimney and becoming a permanent fixture on the route. Anyone have any first hand experience or heard any stories of gnarly chimney falls?

ZANE · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20

Bump.

I havent done it either, but there have been times where I thought... man If I slip any deeper in this crack I'm probably not going to be able to get out.

Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,378

I haven't done it but I'm posting to keep this thread alive hoping to hear an agonizing story of someone spending 2 hours wedged in a chimney.

Please, if you are out there...share your story. Haha

Ryan7crew · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 485

I personally have not fallen out of a chimney. But a route me and some buddies were trying to FA had a overhung transfer from offwidth to chimney. My buddy Ardian came whipping out just as he was getting into the chimney. Maybe 10-12 ft total, my on a 35 ft route that's pretty substantial. Little and big features broke everywhere, he ripped the ass out of his pants, and swung into the wall hard and sideways. Terrifying to watch. He never went back for the send either...

Likeasummerthursday · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 90

Haha! Great post!

I was leading the crux chimney pitch on Epinephrine, competent but scared, and my foot slipped on the wall and my close friend and partner uncontrollably yelled out, "Oh, Shit!"

...I was bumping a piece and had a #5 literally over my head. I definitely get how scary and tenuous a lead fall in a chimney feels.

I wrote this mostly to keep this post up high as to hear of something gnarly legit!

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I have never fallen in one either, but in the Harding Slot on Astroman I got so sick of the chimney I kind of wanted to fall out of it. Unfortunately it was so small I pretty much had no option but to finish it up or just die from old age in there.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

I had the oddest fall while DWS in Thailand. I got off the boat and clibed into a chimney. It narrowed enough to stop me. I hate falling but couldn't figure out how to down climb safely.

So I just let go and fell down the chimney/tube. Made quite the impression on being flushed out.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

In 1960 Irving Smith fell down the Lost Arrow Chimney to his death. The NPS closed the route for a year as his body could not be recovered safely. After the closure ended Chouinard and Roper went up to do the route. On one pitch Chouinard yelled down to Roper "Remains" and threw off a round object. Roper got the next pitch which was where the body was lodged. When Chouinard asked him "what's it like?" Roper yelled out "His goddamn parka doesn't fit me!"

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Can't top that one. Wow. I've seen a cow skull on North Six Shooter but no humans.

j w · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 8

Here are some more details about Irving Smith's fatal chimney fall:
highwire.stanford.edu/~gali…

One thing to note is that he was rappelling or transitioning off rappel, rather than leading the chimney.

Interested in hearing about anyone taking a lead fall in a chimney. I've backed out rather than risk it. Some discussion of potential wedge-ins and backing out here:

mountainproject.com/v/liqui…

Seth Hogan · · Frisco, Co · Joined May 2011 · Points: 160

Basically, if you fall, you catch yourself quickly with an awkward body jam or fall and get excessively hurt. That's my particular feeling.

j w · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 8

Also, speaking of scary chimney leads, does anyone know the climb is in this video?

https://vimeo.com/116011686

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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